alright, I want to try to do my timing set.



the reasons being,

-rough idle/miss,

-low vacuum (14)

-low compression (all roughly 85-90 psi. across all cylinders)

-poor performance, (i have to ease into the throttle, anything more than 3/4 throttle it will bog down bad especially climbing in 2nd gear on the ford-0-matic.)



carb is a brand new holley 350 cfm 2 barrel.

i have recently done all kinds of work carb, plugs, wires cap, rotor, points, coil, valve springs keepers and stem seals, and rings (that refuse to seat causing great amounts of oil consumption and blue smoke, BUT rather than diagnosing that as a cause, lets say that is a symptom of the low compression issue)



first of all, is my theory possible that my symptoms be related to a slacked/jumped chain?



second i see there are threads about how to install the damper, however i am curious if there is a special tool i need to remove it or can i use the one "for rent" at the local parts monger.



3rd my y block book days nothing about degreeing the cam is this something i should be worried about for a stock shoestring budget ride? i am not changing the cam just trying to get it to run right as it. and i know about the 12 pins at 3-o-clock alignment right side up not upside down as it shows in the book.



4th my y block book makes a big deal about getting the cover seal centered on the crank is this really a huge concern?

Sounds like your engine is toast. How many miles? How new are rings? If it runs it is not a jumped timing chain. Look elseware. What is the history of your engine? DO NOT BE SHY, TELL US TOO MUCH, NOT TOO LITTLE.

Has it run like crap since you have owned it or did it just start? The symptoms almost sound like a mismatch between a 56 or earlier carb and a 57 or later distributor.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

The odometer reads just under 73000 it who knows how many times it has rolled.



The rings have about 800 miles on them. I did them last spring.



Other than that the car sat for what I'm guessing was about 10 years. I got it running and in the process of getting the kinks worked out I found a dead cylinder, 30psi the rest read 90. I re ringed them all the compression came up on that cylinder and now they all read between 85 and 90psi, but smokes and burns oil like a pig.



its probably safe to say that because of the compression was low to begin with there was a problem I have not found yet that keeps engine from running correctly and the rings from seating.



The compression numbers are relatively close. There for I have ruled out valve seals and bad rings because what Ever is the problem is effecting all the cylinders equally, before and after the ring job. Thus I have started to suspect cam timing.

The compression has been crap since I've owned it. I would say its probably never run to its full potential since I've owned it. Some days are better than others but it has never been right.



Its a 59 and it has a mechanical advance the carb is less than a year old so that's not the case

Im supprised that with new rings and can only assume bore not too worn and ring end gaps correct that it ,s blowing smoke. With low vac at 14 it would be worth rechecking plug gaps, correct plug heat range , point gap and timing, and then recheck vacuum reading. thats my thought on the symptons described at this stage . best regards aussiebill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

You might have a cam that has worn out. Pete

I've set all the ignition gaps and timing to spec. the plugs oil foul bad because of the ring issue.



the smoke is because the rings refuse to seat, the rings refuse to seat because there is something else wrong with the engine causing uniformally low compression across all cylinders. thus i fix the compression issue then i can deal with seating the rings.



if the compression #s were not so uniform i could see rings or valve seats, but for all of them to be in the same range i suspect something is wrong with the cam, either its not timed correctly or its flat, so I'm going to start with the cheapest route first, and do the timing set.



i know the easy answer and the best way to deal with it all is just to rebuild it, however until i get my daily driver paid off and this wedding paid for, I'm on a shoe string budget and can't justify spending much at all on this car at this time.



what tool does everyone use to pull off the damper? will any puller work?

The puller to use is a universal style same as used on steering wheel.The damper is tapped to take 2 bolts threaded in.You will likely have to do a real good clean upon the damper to find the holes but they are there.In order to undo the large bolt which holds the damper on you need to stop the motor from turning.I bolted a piece of chain to the hub and around the vehicle frame and used a length of pipe which fits over my 1/2 inch ratchet handle to undo the bolt.Its on there VERY tight.To reinstall I bought a longer bolt(fine thread) and a large washer to "pull" it back on until the stock bolt would thread in.The pullers are cheap to buy(buy a good one) and I have used mine MANY times over the years for steering wheels and dampers.A good quality tool pays for itself many times over.

  

Re: centering the timing cover/seal:



Minus the special Ford tool, I assume the damper will just push on far enough to insure proper centering before the cover is bolted down?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA