Hi again guys,

Well today I was going to get to the bottom of my engine problems, first i did a compression test, it went as follows

1- 120, 2- 120, 3- 90, 4, 115

5- 115, 6- 120, 7- 90, 8- 115

ok, so I found this acceptable. I then decided to cure my excessive blue smoke (from one side) I was going to replace the guide seals. I removed the valve covers and found the right side not getting oil to the rockers.Removed the rocker shaft and cranked it, nothing.Is it common on a Y?? Possibly a poor oil pump? Ordered a pump and oil pan gasket, figured i would change the pump and check out the lower end while i was down there. Hopefully since the right head is the furthest from the pump this will cure the problem?

ps: Where can I get valve cover grommets to go under the retaining nuts?

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

Hello Mike! Apparently this is a common problem with the right side more than the left.Its possible that the oil passage from the cam bearing to the head is plugged.You can try putting some solvent like varsol down the passage,let it soak and apply air pressure to it.Another suggestion I was given is put a grease fitting in a piece of steel and bolt it over the hole and force grease down through to open the blockage.On mine oil to the right side is slower getting to the rockers by about 60-90 seconds over the left side.Apparently wear on the cam bearing can create a problem with oil feed to the head on the right side according to what John Mummert explained when I posted this problem with mine.Is there oil to the left side rocker shaft or is the shaft itself plugged like a lot of them are after years of no maintenance as far as oil and filter changes.Have you checked the oil pressure with a known good gauge?

  

The problem you describe is quite common. I have cleaned up several passages by first letting a good solvent for quite a while and then using vacuum to suck the crud out. I'm not sure it always works, but it sucks the crud out instead of pushing it down to the cam bearings.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

I am going to start soaking the journals this morning.

That whole force grease through thing was just plain scarey sounding.

Still wish Ford had a Y-Block Crate Motor

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

My old man "invented" a metal block w/a grease fitting back in the day. Had a patent on it and everything. He never made any money on it. Dont be scared off using something like that. It works.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

That "grease"suggestion is from Ted Eaton.Basically its hydraulic pressure.

  

If using grease to clear the oil passageways, be sure to use white grease or a grease with a low melting point.  Axle grease is not recommended as the melting point is considerably higher than plain white grease.

 

If going the solvent route, then use a long wire to fish down into the oil hole as far as the wire will reach to help loosen up the ‘crud’.

 

Putting air on the center oil gallery in the side of the block is also worth a try as that's the gallery closest to the center cam journal and the oil galleries leading back to the top of the engine.  Be sure to put a rag over the top of the head if doing this with the rocker arms off as it could very well make a mess.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

THanks guys, I refuse to give into the darkside (and change engines).

Do you fellas agree that with the compression #'s i gave the lower end is probably ok?

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

Your compression numbers are NOT ok, 30PSI difference, thats 25% difference from the lowest to the highest reading, which is bad.



did you check valve lash before the compression test?

if the lash check to be ok, you should perform a leak down test to find out what is causing the low and uneven compression on some cylinders without tearing the engine apart.



you need an air compressor and the leak down tester can be had at harborfreight for under 40 dollars, 30 if onsale.



the uneven compression can be caused by something as simple as out of adjustment valve lash to something serious like burnt/stuck valve, stuck rings, broken or melted pistons or rings.

A bore brush for a M16 rifle is an excellant tool for cleaning the passage, you might pick up one for a 22 cal rifle that will work also. Solvent followed by wire brush followed by Ted's white grease should open it up.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL