I keep having to reseal my oil filter canister. I get it sealed, drive it around the block, park it without incident, come out and start it the next day and within 5 seconds blows oil as if there no gasket at all. When I check the hold down bolt it is a little loose but even after tightening still leaks. I was told maybe pressure relief valve in the oil pump was clogged causing too much pressure. Ckecked that still no luck. I checked the sealing surfaces and made sure everything looked right. I am at a loss. Can anyone help?

Unless you are really into originality, I would suggest converting to a spin on. It is possible that the previous owner had a small leak, overtightened it and distorted the canister. I still have a socket somewhere that I ground the broaching flat on especially for removing the thin nut that needs to be changed to make the conversion.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Thank you. I planned on ordering one of those conversions but I wanted to make sure I didn't experience the same issues. So if the canister is a little warped that could cause it to seal at first but after it has heated up then cooled off make it come loose and leak the next day? Makes sense. Original is for Barrett/Jackson. I want to drive my car. Thanks again.

I’m assuming you have gaskets under and above the thin metal plate for the cannister filter at this time?  But totally agree on converting to the spin on filter.  When converting to the spin on filter, be sure that the center hole in the flat plate that bolts to the block is least 1/16” higher than the outer surface when it is laying on flat surface.  This will insure adequate tension to the gasket under the plate when it’s tightened to the block.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

For good measure, you could obtain the extra-thick plate gasket Prestige sells. There is also some controversy about whether to install it wet or dry. I've had good results with spray-on adhesive (keeps it from sliding out of place when you torque down the plate).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA