[quote]marvh (10/25/2009)

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I have found when using the Isky E4 cam you have to set the valve lash wider than the called spec of .015. I set the valves at .017 hot or .018 cold and .018 hot or .019 cold on the two centre cylinder exhaust valves as they are side by side and tend to run hotter.

Before I starting setting the valves lash wider I experienced all the symptoms you are experiencing of terrible idle and no vacuum. The power brake booster would not work and vacuum wipers stalled.



Marvh,



Was your E4 degreed? If so, how was it set up?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks' Hoosier, forgot about the propane. I'll do some checking before I give up entirely. Marve I haven't heard of setting the center two exhausts being run a thousandth more than the others, but have noticed that they tend to wear differently (less I think) than the others.

-Does anyone else typically do this in general, or with the E-4?



I have a flat moroso 1 inch alum. spacer from jeggs a few years ago. The base of the Demon does not suggest any issues as far as it's contact patch so to speak. I slotted the secondary between the two sides in the same fashion as a factory 2bbl spacer for the later y's did. I tried it against a 1" open, & a 1" 4 hole & found it to be the best of both worlds. Mostly like a sealed dual plane at idle & low speeds, but the whole equalization & plenum benefits of the open spacer at wot when the secondary's are open, pulls 90% as strong as the open spacer up top.



I have another 4 hole phonelic I ordered before realizing the best gaskets had built in restricters for the heat riser. I'll run a separate test using this spacer to rule out any issue here.

I have found when using the Isky E4 cam you have to set the valve lash wider than the called spec of .015. I set the valves at .017 hot or .018 cold and .018 hot or .019 cold on the two centre cylinder exhaust valves as they are side by side and tend to run hotter.

Before I starting setting the valves lash wider I experienced all the symptoms you are experiencing of terrible idle and no vacuum. The power brake booster would not work and vacuum wipers stalled.



(quote) I now have been tinkering with the new road demon carb (525) (see other thread road demon vs road demon jr) and have come to a road block with the tuning... I can't get it to run properly. I have noticed that after running it down the road that i can hear a whistle... I saw some posts on the site regarding others with vac leaks..



If the base of the demon carb has a bridged base like the Autolite 4100's not a flat base as the holleys a vacuum leak will occur at the front of the carb between the two idle adjust screws if you do not use a flat base plate under the carb. The base of the carb and manifold base are near same dimensions and after the gasket gets damp it will suck inwards.

marv

Stake Bed:

You can use an unlit propane torch and direct it around the intake and carb gaskets.  If there is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change.  Be careful around the distributor, the sparks inside the cap might ignite the propane.  It doesn't start a fire, just causes a flash.  Don't ask how I know this.  Spray can carb cleaner also works, doesn't leave an oily mess, but might wrinkle new paint.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The only sure way to find a vacuum leak is to squirt something that smokes good like Marvel Mystery oil around where there might be a vacuum leak. However, before you do that, inspect for stupid things like a hose disconnected to your heater, wipers, vacuum advance, etc. Did you mill the heads, If so the intake must be compensated for that. As far as Best gaskets go, they are my preferred gasket. If you have to spray oily stuff on, it can be removed by something like Simple Green and water.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

I was doing some searching on the site tonight, & i have come to realize that I have been having all the tune issues since putting on the newly refirbished G heads, & all... I remember that the eddy carb was significantly leaner when I ran it after the second phase of the mechanical upgrades. 

I had 13 inches of vac. prior to any of the mechanical upgrades.

Then phase 1, I did the rear main, the doulble roller chain & advanced the cam 4 degrees. 

I started it for a brief miniute with the oil, pan & front cover all torqued into place.

At this time the valves hadn't been adjusted for some time, & were definetly noisy... Maybe .018+.

The vac gauge read 14-15 at idle... Like i said it was brief maybe a minute.

After installing the G heads, I lashed the valves at the .015 that Isky specifies for the e-4...

I only had about 11 inches of Vac.  I chalked it up to the big valves & tighter lash amplifing the cam.

I now have been tinkering with the new road demon carb (525) (see other thread road demon vs road demon jr) and have come to a road block with the tuning... I can't get it to run properly.  I have noticed that after running it down the road that i can hear a whistle... I saw some posts on the site regarding others with vac leaks..

I think that it could logically be related to the head swap.

So, here goes the questions for my brainstorming:

Has anyone had intake gasket issues with the Bestgaskets??

I used KB copper coat on them with bone dry surfaces(brake clean).

I just sealed up every inch of this engine and would like to keep it as clean as possible... Not looking forward to spraying it down with carb clean & for heaven's sake oil of some kind!!  Any suggestions?