Buy a new gasket set. I have had very poor luck with FelPro head gaskets. That is why we use Best Gaskets exclusively [/quote]



John,



Is that "poor luck" with just hi-po applications only? Re-torquing after run-in included? Is the Best compressed thickness different than FelPro? Can use of sealer save them? Please elaborate.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks John. Is it your opinion that there are better rings to use than the original type cast iron rings?I see the rings in your kits are moly.What is the advantage of these type rings?The original lifters were steel and the ones you recommend are cast iron?What makes the cast ones a better choice?I understand there have been some problems with the aftermarket lifters which is why I am wary of using them.At least the NOS Ford ones I know what quality I am getting.Appreciate our input.Thanks

  

Mark, the "stock cam" is the same spec as the 64 truck cam, but it is grooved not cross-drilled. The specs are very similar to 1955 cams: 196 degrees at .050" and .260" lobe lift. This is a very mild cam. By comparison the 57 cam was 208 @ .050 and .285" lobe lift. The 58-later cams reverted to the early specs.

Some of the parts Carpenter has are NOS Ford, some are not. His cams are NOS 1955 cross-drilled and lifters are NOS steel according to people who have bought them. Pistons are replacement type, not Ford. I don't know what they have for rod, main and cam bearings.

I would use a mild performance cam, there are some available with nearly stock idle and greatly improved performance. New cams should be used with cast lifters. The Carpenter pistons appear to be okay but sources may vary on old stock. I would use new rings since they are readily available and quality appears to be good.

Buy a new gasket set. I have had very poor luck with FelPro head gaskets. That is why we use Best Gaskets exclusively although I do occasionally sell Engine Master for the frugal minded.

You should budget 2500.00 to rebuild your engine if you do as much labor your self as possible. Don't let a couple hundred one way or the other lead you to poor quality parts

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

because when you look at the engine from the front of the car, left hand banks are cylinder 1-4, right banks are 5-8, and 1 cylinder from each bank connect to 1 crank journal, so the most forward journal connect the #1 cylinder (left forward most) and #5 cylinder (right forward most), etc

Thanks John.Rebuilding this is my winter project.The rod order you have stated is what mine are.The light just went on!This is a V-8 not a straight 8.The rods are paired from both banks of cylinders.Its been about 30 years since I last rebuilt a motor.What I am seeing makes me think this motor is original.Now I know you sell a lot of "hi-po" parts for the Y-blocks but I am doing a stock rebuild.Dennis Carpenter has everything in NOS Ford parts to rebuild this including pistons,rings,bearings,camshaft and lifters etc.I believe there are better aftermarket gasket kits than original Ford but what is your opinion of using everything else NOS?With so much aftermarket parts being made offshore I don't have faith that they are superior to NOS Ford especially for just a stock rebuild.Opinion appreciated.Are original cast iron rings a good idea?Is there a better choice for bearings and rings?I am rebuilding this myself.John,I see on your site you sell your kits including a Ford camshaft C4TZ-6250-A.That cam is listed as having a drilled centre journal as opposed to the B8A-6250-C which has a grooved centre journal.Is this a correct description and what do you do-modify the journal so it is grooved?How do the specs compare between the 2 "stock" camshafts? Thanks!

  

Sounds like it's time for a rebuild.

Front to back the rods should be 5-1-6-2-7-3-8-4

Some of the older bearings were made with copper facing only, no babbit. I've seen this on both Ford replacement bearings and Michigan. All I've seen like this were for 312's. No idea why.

BTW: after digging through the pile of NOS parts I got recently I finally found out what the DAB stamped on Ford bearings stood for: Dearborn Aluminum and Bronze

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

I pulled the motor today and did a quick inspection of the bottom end.The timing chain was almost falling off.I did notice the con rods were out of order numerically.Does this mean this motor has been worked on before?The one main bearing I had a look at is mostly a copper color with only a little grey color which I assume was the babbitt and the copper is the backing material?If its been worked on before it has been many years as the motor is full of crud and the oil pickup is almost plugged.Surprised I had any oil pressure at all which I did have 15 at idle and 40-50 while driving.

  

Grade 5 will more than do

I am pulling my motor this weekend.Are Gr 5 bolts strong enough to mount this motor on the engine stand?I can get gr 8 at a specialty bolt place if its neccessary.Thanks