I have been working with a 312 the last couple days.  It has an ECK cam.  Anyone know what it is, as my reference for Ford cams is missing?

The main caps are indexed to the block poorly.  They lift from the block easily after bolts are untightened.  This surely isnt normal is it?  All the other blocks I've worked on had to have the caps very carefully installed and removed or they would bind up, and the process sometimes was lengthy.  I checked for cracks in the bolt and block recess areas but havent found any yet.  Is the block toast?

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

At a guess it sounds like the bolts are bottomed out. Possibly installed in the wrong order or aren't the right ones..

Paul

Sorry, I forgot the Cam spec's. The chart supplied by J. Mummert in Y-B Mag issue #77, says that it's a standard 1955 cam. Duration @ 0.50" is about 197 deg & it's cross drilled.

Paul

The cam is grooved.  Forgot to mentiion that.  It is ok if it is a run of the mill but of course would like it to be a '57 which is less run of the mill.  The issue if it is one with the caps is that they fit relatively loosely in the block cutouts.  With bolts removed, they lift off very easily and go back the same.  Other blocks have had to get the caps placed very square into the cutouts, and then have the bolts tightened one side to the other in steps to get them to set down.  They seem "sloppy". 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I understand the looseness you describe in that the caps seem too short and can move sideways in block with bolts removed and rely on bolt tension to keep them centered?. While technically probably not correct, i have seen the small locating pads on each end of the caps burred larger by hitting with centerpunch or chisel marks, then line bored and then bascilly back to standard tight locating fit, hope this is clear, regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Bill you have the problem right.  Dont think I want to put money into this block though.  It is .060 OS.  Anybody want a free bare block 312, seriously?

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Wow, Mike. That block might still be ok.



Are the freeze plugs out? Look through the rear freeze plug hole on the right side of the engine. Are the cylinders parallel? What casting number is the block?



Yeah, the cap registers need to be tight, but you have a good machine shop nearby.



I think I'd knurl the edges of the cap, not the block, to get a tight fit.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Thanks Paul, that echoes what Bill was saying.  Given the crank looks like it can go right back in with new bearings, 10/10, I'll give it more consideration.  Dont know when I can afford it though, as 8 sleeves sounds expensive.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Yes that block and main caps can be "staked" a method of relocating and tensioning the caps. Ask your machinist how he does it. Just saying IF you want to save it.

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