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LordMrFord
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Flying Jester (12/17/2009) Boy, you guys are a lot more motivated than I am...I've never winterized a car, and I live in Alaska!Cars dont rust in subzero. BTW. Today was -25C / -13F in here. It was pretty cold when I was working outdoor on factory roof.
 Hyvinkää, FI
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MoonShadow
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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People that haven't lived up north can't relate to the amount of salt they put on the roads in the winter! Even new cars show rust after only a few years in this environment. Same goes for spring rains when the salt is being washed out of the roadways and ground. Since I don't have indoor storage for my cars I feel much better putting them away for a few months. It can make me pretty antsy on those nice sunny clear days with drys roads but? The bright work problem on the parking light housings was white and crusted in spots. Of course metal damage (pits) appeared beneath the spots. Didn't seem to effect the bumper though? Chuck
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
  MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 3.3K,
Visits: 238.8K
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Chuck: about the bright work rusting, in your storage. It could be that the concrete floor contains dampness & is permeated with residue from chicken droppings & urine, both are very corrosive. As for driving a vintage car in the winter, especially in northern cities where they salt the roads, that is a "death knell" for older cars. To be blunt, anyone driving a collector car in those conditions, needs their head examined!...
Paul
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56 big window
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 87,
Visits: 263
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white vinegar is supposed to clean the contaminates from exhaust systems that fall out on unprotected surfaces such as chrome that cause corrosion and discloration
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Doug T
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
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I agree with Dan, keep it slightly warm and dry especially and not too much trouble will occur due too rusting of the bodywork. I would not drive an early T bird in wet and cold days unless absolutely necessary because there are so many places, especially in the door A columns, for rust to eat away. If there has been salt on the roads I wait for a good rain to wash it away. When I got my T bird there were almost no floors between the trany tunnel and rocker panels and the A columns ended halfway between the hinges. It was an upstate New York car. You can not remove salt, it removes your car. BTW most T birds also rust from the inside because they leak water into the carpet which then causes corrosion in the floors especially if there is salt involved.
Doug T The Highlands, Louisville, Ky. 
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DANIEL TINDER
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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I have one of those overhead/infrared heaters in my attached two-car garage. Runs on propane and needs no electrical source. Keeps minimum temp above 40 degrees, and since I also have a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier under the Bird, typical rust due to condensation from water vapor that comes up through bare concrete not a problem. Since the wall between garage and living space minimally insulated, energy cost is less than heating a free-standing structure. Side benefit is extended life for my daily grocery-getter (16 yrs./250K mi., still looks new). Nothing better than jumping into a warm car when it's 10 below outside.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Flying Jester
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
Posts: 161,
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Boy, you guys are a lot more motivated than I am...I've never winterized a car, and I live in Alaska!
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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.
--Alan Moore
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Gordie T
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 140,
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Lots of good ideas. Here in cool ol' Ontario, I top up gas tank, put stabil in, hook up a battery tender to it...not a trickle charger, spray all chrome and anything shiny with wd40...makes a mess but never have rust spots in the spring, I put Bounce sheets in the car to keep mice out, and I roll moth balls under the car around the floor. Bounce smells better...top up the tires, and put my cover over it..I park it on plywood squares on top of my concrete floor.. Come spring I pump the pedal 10 times and it starts every time....a good wash and we're ready.
Gordie T Long Point, Ontario
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Bob's 55
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
Posts: 287,
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MoonShadow (12/16/2009) The, supposed to be, stainless tube grill was also pretty badly rusted! Chuck in NHChuck, unfortunately not all stainless is the same. There are different grades of stainless (not stain proof). The different alloys that make up the stainless steel make it more resistant to corrosion and stains (like the good brightwork on your '56 compared to the crap they obviously used on your custom grill.
BOB
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paul2748
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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I think Sta-bil is a crock. It completely screwed up the carb on my son's car. I've had old cars for over 30 years and never used the stuff or another brand. I never had gas go bad on me, including the newer 10% ethanol. Just remove the ground cable and your all set. Once every two weeks or so, start it up and run it so it gets up to full operating temperature. Better yet, do it on a clear day and just take it out and exercise it - the tires will love you.
Never store it over dirt. Put down one of these cheap blue tarps if you have to, cover the entire floor.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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