I use the same idea someone posted earlier about using plywood under the car to prevent moisture from the concrete rusting a detailed undercarriage. I also cover my cars with heavy blankets and then lean more plywood against them to prevent accidental scrapes and knocks from other work I do in the garage. When these cars were driven all year around in the 50's did they even use road salt back then?

Like Seppo said, just cover it and forget it, I have done that for years and never had a problem, as long as you are not driving it in the salt you will have no problems, Keep it off the grass, old carpets, plastic, Mill felts whatever underneath helps. Topping off with AV gas helps.

The biggest problem up here is they are starting to use a calcium (which is a type of Lime) mix with the salt the last 5 years or so and that stuff is seriously corrosive, my 79 truck which wasn't that bad a truck was rusted to death after a couple years in the stuff. My Nephew has a body shop and they repair the dump trucks for the city that haul the stuff and new trucks only a couple years old, they have to replace the roofs all the time from drippings over the beds just eating the crap out of them.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Just leave it outside under a blanket. Minus 20 degrees Celsius at the moment here .

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

I now know the best way to store my car for the winter. Take it to a mechanic to have a bent pushrod and rocker arm assembly retaining nut replaced. It's been there over two months.

"You can lead a horse to water...but a pencil must be lead."

 

Cleveland, Ohio

I put a large/thick carpet remnant under the plastic vapor barrier. Helps keep the tires from flat-spotting, and makes a creeper totally unnecessary. Plastic is very slick, and long periods working under the car not at all uncomfortable.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I used to subscirbe to Mustang Monthly and they had some great ideas:  Putting down heavy plastic has mentioned will cut down on the condensation, also unweighting the supension a little with stands will help the spings and suspension, and checking and flushing the drain holes that tend to clog up and start causing rust in the lower quarters.  I kind of lean towards getting it out on a good dry day and driving it to burn out the condensation in the system but I can see in some areas they might not have that option.

I do the same as rgrove when storing my car but I also put a couple of Goldenrod dehumidifiers in the interior (http://www.goldenroddehumidifiers.com/introduction.htm). Don't know how well they work but figure they can't hurt. My garage is unheated and detached from the house.

BOB

full tank, add stabil, change the oil, check the coolant to make sure it will protect down to anticipated temps.  I use a Battery Tender to maintain the charge.  Ive been using it on the same battery for 4 years, with no detrimental side effects.  Car starts right up every spring.  If you leave the battery connected but not on a maintenance charger, the clock will eventually kill the battery.  It is important NOT to just use your regular battery charger though.

I also fill up the tires to spec (a few lbs more actually), wash it, pull up the floor mats, leave the windows cracked a little bit, and cover it up.  In the spring I change the oil again, lube the chassis, and im on my way.  Also, I change the brake fluid every other year.

That ritual has worked for the last 10 years or so and has been trouble free.  As for chrome, I pretty much make sure its clean.  And the garage is unheated, but attached, insulated, and has a painted floor.

Thats what I do anyways, FWIW.

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Pull it in the garage in mid November with a full tank of gas and a fresh oil change, go out in April or May crank it for about 30 seconds till the oil pressure gauge moves then pump it a few times and it starts right up. No battery tender, no mid winter charge.

I work on many battery equiped systems and what kills the batterys is the charger runing 24-7 and boiling the batterys.

If you have a good battery it will hold a charge at least 6 months in our cars, in later model cars with computers and stereo systems that draw power all the time you need a maintainer charger but not in our cars.

Actually its not the snow or sub zero temp that gets them. Its the salt that the road crews put down. There are a few locals, one with a 32 roadster and a 32 coupe, that you will see year round on the roads up here when the sun is shinning and the roads are clear. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire