John;

Speaking of crankshafts, any word from the crank grinder about the stroker cranks? We are moving this Friday for new adventures in Maine. My temporary address will be P.O. Box 175, Pittsfield, ME 04967. Cell # 208-867-1176

Thanks, Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Rono,

Look me up and give me your number, you will only be about an hour from me. My cell is 207-333-8369. myrandci@fairpoint.net. I am in China at the moment but should be home within a week.

As far as the damper being too big, I have shrunk couplings for machinery that was too big for their shafts. Anything heated, when it shrinks, it shrinks more than it ever expanded. Whereas the damper has a rubber in it this will be a hard feat to accomplish but if you kept cold rags around the part with the rubber while heating the center and then cooling a few times .002" shrinkage may be accomplishable.

Just a thought, You then may want to use a blue loctite when installing damper, this is not the permanent and may only need a slight heating if you ever have tyo remove it.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Interesting. Didn't know heating caused permanent shrinkage. Since fresh honing has left a rough surface, I also wondered about the existence of some kind of low viscosity, super tough liquid metal that could be painted on?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I also wonder about additional honing to allow the installation of some kind of sleeve like ones used to repair the outer seal surface?

Expensive precision machining (that might still not totally eliminate a possible failure) could approach the cost of a new replacement though (?), negating any benefit.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I've never tried Bill's method of shrinking but if it works you can get the rubber replaced for a lot less than the cost of another damper. About $150 vs $500

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Boring the damper and installing a bushing to restore the fit on the crankshaft is always an option.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Bill,

As soon as I obtain an accurate dial bore gauge to check progress, I will likely attempt your heat/shrink procedure. I assume applying a propane torch flame to the over-honed inside of the bore is what you had in mind? Any tips you could provide re: time/color change/cooling procedure, etc.? (plan: pack weight ring with cold/wet rags, get the bore red-hot, let it cool, check for shrinkage with bore gauge, repeat until target size achieved if progress noted?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Discussed this "heat shrink" topic with a local mechanic. He claimed (his experience) that torched-off frozen pulleys often have a looser fit when reinstalled. Might be due to other factors (metal type, clearance effects of cleaned corrosion, etc.), but with likely danger of compromised epoxy bond, I might just shelve this particular approach for now.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Billy.  My experience with heat on connecting rod ends is a more relaxed fit or larger hole sizes with each heating of the rod small ends.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

don't know if this fits the problem but Loc tite makes some stuff called Metal lock.  It's a viscous green fluid designed to hold metal parts together when the press is lost.  I've used it successfully in different applications but don't know about a balancer.  The bottle says it's good up to .003.  With hone marks, etc, might be a good fix.  Guess it just depends on how much trouble it is to take apart again if it doesn't work.