Thanks Speedbump,



Been putting it off, but will eventually talk to both Loctite (Henkel) & Permatex tech. service about product details. Will likely go this route since damper feels quite tight when installed with key in place. If bolt is properly torqued and correct threadlocker products used on bolt & crank nose, I might get away with non-racing/mild street service without eventual keyway damage, driving only w. pump & gen.?


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I know the stuff is crazy strong in round on round applications.  I first learned of the stuff when it was sent to us as part of kits to upgrade weapons pylons on USAF jets.  The only knock I've ever heard was that it can form a heat transfer barrier when used in things like exhaust hard seats. (but I've done it successfully)  I've used it for replacement guides on heads where the machinework was done previously and the new guides didn't seem to have a good press.... and then had to remove one due to a mistake...guarantee that stuff holds.

Wouldn't want too much hold when it came time to pull damper. Heat release like red Loctite?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I woudn't worry about getting the damper off. I'd only be concerned that you get it on the crank straight and it stays there. Maybe it will still be there 20 years from now.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

It did also occur to me that with .002" clearance, when jammed tight against the key it might be cockeyed enough to spin a bit funny. While the Loctite would take up the clearance and keep it tight (when torqued down), with the key pushing it askew, I could likely never get in on perfectly straight.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

The Permatex Part #68040 product ‘for relaxed’ hub clearances comes back apart without any special considerations and appears to hold up fine over time.  Like John mentions, insuring that the hub is perfectly centered is a concern but at 0.002” I wouldn't consider that being a show stopper as long as the hub itself remains tight.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, as usual you add some logic to the situation.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

If you are concerned about the hub not being centered I would install it then take a dial indicator and do a run-out check around the outer of the hub near the front seal, (not use the pulley as the rubber could be not trued). This would tell you if installed or not installed dead center.



2 thousand loose is what we used to use for machine matching a pin to a bored hole. The weight of the pin would slide slowly by its own weight through the bore. If you used the Permatex as Ted suggested that pulley will be there forever. Double checking by doing a run-out again would prove centered.

marv

marvh,



FYI: Measurement of outer hub surface of torqued-down NOS damper with test indicator (directly opposite threaded crank snout) revealed aprox. .007" runout, with bias not directly related to key position. So much for that idea. To satisfy curiosity, I will eventually install spare repro damper and take same reading, just to see if precision machining standards have improved in 50 years. Or, could installed torque stresses likely have distorted the outer hub surface?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Before you take off the damper to install the old damper mark the high spot somewhere say on the flywheel flange with another mark on the block for a comparison mark then do a run-out check on the crankshaft snout with the damper off. Maybe the crank snout has the same .007" run-out and giving as sense of not centered. Crank snout is bent not looseness in pulley.

marv