The one I would be concerned is head installation with new bolts. It may require torquing, releasing etc without head gasket until stretch is met???

marv[/quote]



This sounded like a good idea, but I had ruled it out since my pistons are out of the hole. I remembered though, I have an old set of scratched-up steel gaskets I used to protect head decks while chamber grinding/polishing. I could torque THEM down, and double check valve-piston clearance (using weak springs) at the same time with a dial indicator (adding back difference in gasket thickness).


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Ok, that made sense when I was doing it and now.  All the bolts torqued in sequence, then one bolt at a time loosened and retorqued, again in sequence, at least three times.  If the bolts are supposed to be backed off one by one when retightening a head after run in, then I am not doing it right by not backing them off one by one?

On the same engine, I had gone through the process and had Felpro gaskets in place.  3 rounds of torque.  The engine was on a stand and nothing was done to it for a couple weeks.  For a reason I dont remember the heads needed to be taken off again .  As the first bolt was loosened it was obviously not 70 lbs. tight.  Adjusted the torque wrench to get an idea of the breakaway torque for the remaining bolts and they ranged from 50 - 60 lbs, most 50-55 lbs.  Bolts were Ford grade 8.

The feedback I received was that the bolts must have stretched.  At least as plausible, I think the fire rings did not compress initially, but did sometime over the next couple weeks.  Not wanting to take a chance the bolts were replaced with ARP studs and the gaskets changed to John's design.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

46Y-Block,
Still can't get Ted's "link pasting" directions to work, but below find thread address and quote re: your inquiry. Seems to go against the whole concept of progressive/circular torquing procedure though. I guess if adjoining bolts are at full torque, then loosening just one completely, and bringing it all the way back to maximum must be OK?

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic29133-3-1.aspx?Highlight=arp+washers

They say 're-torque' (the proper way) must be done by backing-off the bolt, and then tightening in an even motion without stopping, until the proper torque is met. Simply tightening from 'where it's at', gives false readings due to overcoming cold-weld inertia.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

John,

       I knew you did, with blown engines we pretty much have to sure (as I found out). but I'm guessin' I make more mistake than you will. Mike, interesting that ARP suggests oil. I'll bet with your cars you retorque AND use the oil.

  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

If you go to the ARP web site, download the catalog, and look under torque settings (about page 24), it gives readings for using engine oil as opposed to their lube for various sizes. Kind of interesting how much it varies. Several other interesting table, too.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I take the rockers off without loosening the adjusters.  It's only 8 bolts per side.  Leave the pushrods in, and after re-installing the rockers (make sure all the pushrods are seated on the adjusting screws), the clearance should be unaffected.  I always re-check them anyway, just to be sure. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

When I re-torque the heads I leave the rockers in place and use an offset extension which goes around the rockers these can be bought in 11/16 for original bolts or 1/2-12 pt for the ARP head bolts.



For the ARP bolts with a 12 pt 1/2" drive head. I have gotten around the rockers with a 12 pt 3/8 drive socket or a 1/2 dr 12 pt socket with a wobble extension. If using a 3/8 drive socket it has to be a quality socket such as Proto or Snap-on as others I have broken.



I re-check rocker clearance afterward incase clearances has changed. Adjust the rockers final.

marv

Okay, I know there is no such thing as a dumb question, but this may be a dumb question; When you re-torque, do you just unbolt the rocker shafts without loostening the  rocker adjusters or do you leave them set? I think I have it both ways.

Thanks,

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I understand that to retorque after a few heat cycles means to simply take off rockers, and torque bolts or nuts to spec in proper order.

But when torqueing a new set of gaskets 3 plus times to make sure the fire ring compresses, are the bolts supposed to be loosened before retorquing?  That is the process I went through, and if wrong may be the cause of the initital seepage.  And yes I worked up to the torque spec in three steps, 30 55 and 70 lbs each time.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Frank:

Don't include me on your "don't" list.  I always retorque after a few heat up/cool down cycles.  Often find one or more have relaxed.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"