I've drained the carb for winter, the last 4 seasons, and havent had gasket issues.  About the only place one of the gaskets might leak is under the power valve cap or accelerator pump cover, but there havent been any drips.  Quite a few people on other sites recommend a new carb kit be installed in a 2100 every 2 or so years, due to poor gas quality and carbs standing for long periods out of use but full of gas.  In earlier years they would run much longer with little attention but fuels were better.  It would be nice to hold off the rebuilds to a more reasonable 4-6 years. 

The E10 gas is supposed to absorb more water than straight gas, and the water plus the ETOH becomes corrosive to aluminum parts, or so I have read.  2100s are aluminum bodies, as is my fuel tank.  The Viton tip on the float needle and accelerator pump diaphragms are also susceptible.  So out it comes.  Necessary?,  maybe not but I feel better.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I wonder if it would be better to leave the fuel bowl full, and tightly seal off the carb with a plastic bag? While the gas would likely evaporate eventually, the varnish left behind might be a minor price to pay for keeping the gaskets moist?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I just start up the engine before putting into storage, then shut off the elect. fuel pump and let the carb run out of gas.  Then use the fuel pump to drain the gas tank.  The E10 we have here doesnt overwinter well, and is hard on the 2100 in particular.

The only alternative I can think of, and have considered, is to take the top of the carb off and empty the fuel bowl with syringe and tube.  It isnt hard to do, just make sure an extra cover gasket is on hand.  Lightly coat the gasket with white grease so it wont stick.

Too bad the bowls dont come with a drain plug.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I would be worried about the gaskets drying out on the carburator. Gas tank full and stabulizer is best way to go.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

put an inline shut off between the pump and carb. that way the pump never runs dry.

I often store my '59 with 292 for weeks or months at a time and I hate the thought of fuel just sitting/evaporating in the 2100 carb.  I do use STA-BIL, but still...  Can I simply add a fuel shut-off valve ahead of the fuel pump and let the engine run itself out of gas?  Can this harm the fuel pump or damage the engine by running lean?  Are there any other good alternatives?