Hi steve, thats a pretty engine bay! and the fuel line plumbing is nice and exact, a credit to you!  I couldnt help notice the control arm bush looking ready for replacement next, i guess most of you guys only get to use your cars part way through the year due to the weather if you want to keep them in good condition and major work is done then. We are fortunate with the weather other than some random flooding in areas and extreme heat and  no snow that lets us use thm regularly. Steve, i enjoy your knowledge bank on the electrical side of things and is great reference for all of us. Oh! its raining, Best regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Captured me - yes, Bill the left upper A-arm bushings are ready for the "last round-up" - and there is another set of arms waiting in the wings with some brake parts - but I'm still missing quite a few items before I just clean out the whole front end mess and start over. Screw-in Chrysler ball joints are done, new anti-dive upper pivot shaft (almost done), aluminum calipers, discs, etc. "As ye go - so must ye stop"

Brian - Bend some nice lines for your fuel set-up - its time well spent. I found that a lot of the brass fittings are poorly ported on the inside and had to (judiciously) drill out bigger passages for fuel to flow through. On the pressure side of the pump, it isn't as critical as the suction side.

I don't have pictures of it - and its not on the car right now - but I've been trying to design and build a clamp on extension for the lever where the kickdown rod attaches to the linkage. By making the lever longer it should be able to operate the kickdown pressure control rod - to move it downward a bit more than where its stopped now. The "springy" throttle linkage has given me more than a few headaches -and they ain't over yet.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve, whats the background of the chrysler ball joints, are they aftermarket arms or adaption of those BJ,s onto orig arms? Curious! thanks. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Thanks Steve - Did you drop the primary jet numbers from #58 to a #57 or #56?

I may attempt to bend some tube & see how that goes. I also am intrigued about your comments on running cooler. I would like some of that.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

Do it. With some practice you'll be bending like a pro. There is a lever type bender which can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, and other hardware stores. Actually, you might find better versions at smaller hardware stores. All do a good job. Stay away from the plier type and the el cheapo that you just hook into one end and bend around by hand. Actually, the plier type makes a decent bend it just doesn't make much of a bend.

I like the rolling tubing bender sold by Eastwood. I usually alternate between a lever type and rolling type. My Lever type can make a tighter radius which sometimes comes in handy. The rolling type requires less effort to bend the tubing. Both provide bends very close in quality.



Rolling bender:





Lever type:





Plier type:





El Cheapo:







Lawrenceville, GA

Brian - I didn't note the new primary jet size I used on paper some where (bad move - don't do this) - but there were a set of #56's in my stash and they are gone. Because there are some new #58's stored in there now  - probably answers the question. That's two sizes down.....

Be careful closing the hood on the Demon if you use the factory style air-cleaner - I never tried to use that part, just fitted the aftermarket open element style units. The small oval style fits the bump in the hood perfectly - but you may have to adjust your "steady rests" to center the carb/engine under the scoop. It was leaning one way about a half inch......

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Regarding carbs...I finally bit a bullet, chipped my teeth, and bought a nice 4100.  Stamped number is 6ZA, meaning 66 Mustang 289 manual shift.  Kind of been looking for 4 years, so there will be another fun thing to look forward to this spring .  I figured with Ted's dyno tests and some of the proven good things the 4100s offer our engines, better get one before they become even more popular.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

In hooking up the vacuum line to the top of the fuel pump, does it matter if it goes to a ported or non ported source? I already converted the wipers to 12V.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

If you have electric wipers you don't have to hook up the vacuum hoses, or need a pump with the vacuum pump on top. The hoses are suppose to go to the intake manifold and the other to the hose going into the firewall. Neither one goes to the carb. 

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

So direct from the fuel pump to the manifold would be non-ported vaccum. What is the purpose of the vac line to the fuel pump? It regulates volume?

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA