Ah... Great point & makes sense. I will follow the vacuum neutral suggestion. Thanks!

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

Another reason you want to hook the hose in a loop is to keep the fuel pump top diaphragm (wiper diaphragm) in a neutral mode otherwise it will be placing extra wear load on the fuel pump eccentric cam and pump arm. When the hose is hooked in a loop it acts same as the fuel pump diaphragm in only pumping if required if fuel pressure is not met. If hose is looped vacuum is met and there is no requirement for top diaphragm to pump.



Leaving the top diaphragm in a working mode wears out the fuel pump cam very quickly.

I remember the wipers slowing down & that's why I converted to 12V later. Thanks for the tip on the short tube to keep the dirt out. I have extra vacuum caps, so I suppose those would work too.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

That was a vacuum booster for the windshield wipers.  Those of us old enough remember vacuum wipers that slowed down when you accelerated.  Not good for passing.  If you have converted to electric wipers, you don't need the vacuum lines.  A short loop of hose from one fitting to the other will keep dirt out.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

So direct from the fuel pump to the manifold would be non-ported vaccum. What is the purpose of the vac line to the fuel pump? It regulates volume?

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

If you have electric wipers you don't have to hook up the vacuum hoses, or need a pump with the vacuum pump on top. The hoses are suppose to go to the intake manifold and the other to the hose going into the firewall. Neither one goes to the carb. 

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

In hooking up the vacuum line to the top of the fuel pump, does it matter if it goes to a ported or non ported source? I already converted the wipers to 12V.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

Regarding carbs...I finally bit a bullet, chipped my teeth, and bought a nice 4100.  Stamped number is 6ZA, meaning 66 Mustang 289 manual shift.  Kind of been looking for 4 years, so there will be another fun thing to look forward to this spring .  I figured with Ted's dyno tests and some of the proven good things the 4100s offer our engines, better get one before they become even more popular.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Brian - I didn't note the new primary jet size I used on paper some where (bad move - don't do this) - but there were a set of #56's in my stash and they are gone. Because there are some new #58's stored in there now  - probably answers the question. That's two sizes down.....

Be careful closing the hood on the Demon if you use the factory style air-cleaner - I never tried to use that part, just fitted the aftermarket open element style units. The small oval style fits the bump in the hood perfectly - but you may have to adjust your "steady rests" to center the carb/engine under the scoop. It was leaning one way about a half inch......

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Do it. With some practice you'll be bending like a pro. There is a lever type bender which can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, and other hardware stores. Actually, you might find better versions at smaller hardware stores. All do a good job. Stay away from the plier type and the el cheapo that you just hook into one end and bend around by hand. Actually, the plier type makes a decent bend it just doesn't make much of a bend.

I like the rolling tubing bender sold by Eastwood. I usually alternate between a lever type and rolling type. My Lever type can make a tighter radius which sometimes comes in handy. The rolling type requires less effort to bend the tubing. Both provide bends very close in quality.



Rolling bender:





Lever type:





Plier type:





El Cheapo:







Lawrenceville, GA