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Copper Coat on Shim Gaskets?

Posted By Philo 16 Years Ago
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Philo
Posted 16 Years Ago
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I'll be using steel shim head gaskets on my re-build. Would it be a good idea to use copper coat spray on them for a little insurance against leakage? Also, should I re-torque them when cold, warm, hot or not at all? Thanks.

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Ted
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Sealer is highly recommended on the original equipment style steel shim head gaskets and the spray on Copper Coat works well for these.  Silver paint also worked well back in the day but there are a multitude of sealers out there that also works for this.  Retorqing the head bolts after the engine has thoroughly cooled is also highly recommended for the steel shim head gaskets.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


oldcarmark
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Hello Philo! If you dont mind telling-why are you using the old style steel shim gaskets when there are much better newer ones available?

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Philo
Posted 16 Years Ago
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I need to have at least 10 to 1 static compression on a + .040 312 with flat top pistons and G heads. From what I can figure with .015 deck and .027 gasket I'll need to mill the heads about .0325 to get them to 64.5 cc. The heads are posted so I feel safe milling them that much. The pads meas. 1". I've read that the max safe amount to mill posted heads is .045. With composition gaskets I'd be knocking on that door! I've had good luck with shim gaskets so far. I'm running them in my '48 Tudor with a 322" Y with 10cc popups and ECZ-Gs with slightly opened up chambers (around 10.25 to 1 with B7A-C cam) which may not be posted......I was unaware of the posts back in '77 when I built the engine. The cam I plan to use has 228* @ .050 lift. Do you guys think this makes sense? Will I have to mill the intake side to match the ports?






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Philo
Posted 16 Years Ago
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OK! No reply is a good reply!

Seriously, I don't expect anyone to do the math for me. Will have to cc the heads after valves are done anyway to get some exact numbers.

Will be using shim gaskets with copper coat, thanks Ted.

I think I'll spring for a set of ARP head bolts, re-torquing when cold.

Block and rotating assy. going to the machine shop on 1/4/10. Cylinders will be honed with a DECK PLATE....cool. Cool

Oh, Searched and found the ratio for head/manifold milling. Never mind.




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mctim64
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Sounds like you have done your homework.  I like steel shim gaskets although they do take a little more care on install and break-in.  I think Ted had a figure on how many cc's you lose for a certain amount of milling on each type of head. Smile

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b1f2e0d6-2566-46b3-b81d-3ff3.jpg   God Bless. Smile  Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias


DANIEL TINDER
Posted 16 Years Ago
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[quote][b]Philo (12/27/2009)Will I have to mill the intake side to match the ports?



Philo,



I had .025" written down as safe limit for un-posted G heads, but wasn't sure that was strictly manifold-fit related. Did that correlate with the specs you obtained?


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Philo
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Hey Dan,



.025" maximum combustion chamber side removal on un-posted G heads is what I was able to learn also. Be sure to meas. the pads on the lower edge below the spark plugs to check for prior milling. They should be 1" on virgin heads. As far as manifold side removal, it looks like 1.3 to 1.4 times what's taken off the chamber side for a good port match. I believe this info is correct.

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