Your use of a piece of 1 1/2 inch hose has given me an idea about how to seal the hole in the firewall.The pushrod on mine is dead centre with the existing hole in the firewall.A piece of hose cut to correct length and angle might just be enough squeezed in the space at the back of the booster.I have been looking at that hole trying to figure out what I could use.Might even try a piece of rigid PVC pipe and see if it would work.Thanks

  

I had three problems I had to overcome. the push rod was very close to the top of the original master cylinder hole. The new booster does not seal the hole where the push rod passes through the firewall and I had extra holes in the firewall from previous work. My solution was to have a friend make an aluminum plate that would fit in the recess in the firewall where the booster mounts. We drilled a hole in this plate for the push rod and welded a short piece of 1 1/2" tubing around the hole at the same angle as the booster. I then slipped a piece of 1 1/2 hose on the tubing and the nose of the booster with the bellows removed slipped into this. This way I was able to enlarge the hole in the firewall slightly so I could line up the push rod exactly,covered the extra holes and sealed the firewall against dirt and water entry.

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

OK!Thanks Mike.Did you have top modify the brackets a little along the bottom in order to get them flat against the firewall-where there is a ledge around the master cylinder area?.I had to grind off about an inch or so off the bottom edge and also elongate one mounting hole where it bolts to the firewall.Just wanted to mention for anyone reading this post-these boosters are dual diaphram which gives the same assist as a bigger booster in a smaller booster unit.

  

Mark, first I set the pedal all the way to the rear and against it's stop. I then pulled the push rod to the rear so it had approximately 1/8" clearance between it and the plunger in the booster. Then adjusted the end eye so bolt would slide through the eye and brake pedal. When I use the brakes I don't notice any difference between them and any of my other vehicles so think adjustment is about right. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Hello Mike! Just a question.When you were adjusting the pushrod length how did you decide how long to make it?A friend put this setup in his 54 Merc and couldnt get a pedal until he realized he didnt have the pushrod adjusted correctly.Just wondered if you had any tips from installing yours.I got mine from Dave(theoldirishman) also.Nice guy and enjoys talking too.

  

Brake booster came from Dave McCabe in NM. Very helpful guy. Here is a post that talks more about it. Mike

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic32022-3-1.aspx?Highlight=ebay+brake+booster

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Where did you get your system from. I'm looking for a modern style booster and MC for my 57 bird. That one looks like it may be small enough to fit.

Having the engine out would definitely have been easier than laying under the car. Discs and calipers on mine also appear to be Grenada. You will really like the change, I have a Taurus also and both cars brake about the same now.

Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

I am in the process of installing the same setup on mine.Rerunning the steel lines is much easier for me as the motor is out.I see you installed a factory style prop valve.I am using an adjustable one.Also converting to the Granada disc brakes.Got the spindles installed on the weekend along with new coils and rebushed control arms.Welcome to the site by the way.

  

My 56 was originally equipped with power brakes. At some time a disc brake and drop spindle conversion was done on the front. When they did this a new maser cylinder was installed and the old brake booster left in, disconnected. Braking was good but definitely not lite, also front rotors would get hot after a very short drive and no brake applications. Because I was not sure how the previous owner had handled the disc/drum braking requirements I decided to install a new system.

Installed a new booster and aluminum master as well as a combination valve to allow for disc/drum. I also replaced all the steel lines as I figured 53 years was old enough.

What a difference. Braking is great now, fronts no longer run hot and I have a lot more faith in the system. It was a fairly simple install with the front to rear brake line routing being the most difficult part.

My kind of job, simple (relatively) cheap and makes a big difference. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ