My thinking was similar last spring, 10W30 Valvoline racing oil with CompCam ZDDP additive, with the idea of getting the oil flowing and flying around fast.  Used the same weight after oil changes through the summer.  Pressures were fine.

Speaking of tractors, the oil from the last change looked too good to toss, so I used it to change the oil in my Model 600 Ford tractor .

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Well,







Good luck using the CF rated oil in your new diesel. My concern is that API CF is a 16 year old rating that, although still "current" there are MUCH newer (better) ratings for diesel engine oils. Your new engine probably has a cooled EGR and a cat converter that the newest designation is designed for.



My suggestion would be to use the following:



http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1_5W-40.asp#ProductDescriptionTitle



or if available,



http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.asp



They are full synthetics.





Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Rick,

 Thanks for your thoughts RE oil rateing, this valvoline oil i mentioned is 10w40 dura blend, semi synthetic, rated at SAE 10w40 API,SM/CF,ACEA A3/B3 and is designed for passenger diesel, turbo, 4wds and high perf gas engines and i believe is correct for my application. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Factory owners manuals have frequently been wrong. Before you cause engine damage, you should VERIFY that Valvoline 10w40 has the latest and highest rating for diesel engines. (and does not have the starburst "For Gasoline Engines" logo on it. I have not seen (in the states) Valvoline 10w40 with a current diesel API rating newer than CF (1994 IDI, high sulfur fuel) ......And that rating is second & in addition to the gasoline engine ratings.



http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/





http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/index.cfm





Most would run either any name brand 15W40 (which is for diesel engines) or synthetic 5W40 (also specifically for diesel engines)





As an aside, the owners manual for my previous 1986 Ford 6.9L diesel engine (IHI) said in bold print, "DO NOT USE 10w40 as it will cause engine damage and may void your warranty......I thought that was pretty strong language.....





In any case, ENSURE that you are using oil specifically designed for diesels to handle soot. The latest oils for diesels are designed exactly for that.





Regards,





Rick






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Kenneth,

Funnily enough when doing oil change on my recently new nissan 4wd with 2.5 litre turbo diesel 4 cyl engine, it reccommends Valvoline 10W 40 oil as ted suggests, i guess its a diesel formulated oil for small light to medium duty diesels. Yes, oils aint oils! as the old advertsiment goes! regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

[quote][b]crenwelge (1/21/2010) I want the oil to be thin in case there is a clearance a little too tight somewhere and it circulates quicker.



If engine is room temp., and pump/galleries primed until oil runs out the rocker drains, and blueprinted clearances are known/proper (.0017-.0022"), shouldn't straight 30W be OK until it thins from running heat? Brad Penn break-in oil has a LOT of extra ZDDP.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I use what I plan on running all the time. No special break in oil. But I do change the first time somewhere between 500 and 1000 miles AND look it over to see what is going on inside.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

Oil threads are usually very opinionated and the answers are almost always "I use xxx because I've never had a problem, my dad/uncle/wife/pet mechanic/etc etc etc...... used it, ad-nauseum.





For break in, it's pretty good to do what the camshaft manufacturer/grinder suggests.







That's for the most part NOT TRUE. Just about all diesel oils are certified by their own manufacturers and the SAE to be dual use. I.E: SF/CD, SG/CE, etc.



For example, Chevron Delo 400:



Select Performance Specifications

• API Service Categories, including CI-4, CH-4/SL



From Wikipedia:



Most of the oil companies do not make their own additives. Those are made by Lubrizol, Shell Chemical, Castrol, and only a few others.





Oil companies do a LOT of trading. Buying Chevron base oils might get you oil from any manufacturer in a Chevron container. Buying Royal Purple, Super Secret Owl snot, Double Slicky Sticky, or any other "name" might also get you Chevron base oil and Lubrizol/Shell/Castrol additives.



Oil and gasoline are probably the MOST heavily marketed products on the planet.



Either use what the cam manufacturer suggests or what ever makes you feel good. Either will probably do the job!





Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I like 10W30 or 10w40 because I want the oil to be thin in case there is a clearance a little too tight somewhere and it circulates quicker. I stay away from Diesel oils because they are formulated for Diesel engines. Although I have never had a failure, I put ZDDP in everything from a Farmall tractor to a new engine. I don't want to mention brands because I have sold lubricants all my life.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

The topic of oil usually gets a good discussion going. Here are a couple:

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic16672-3-1.aspx?

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic9285-3-1.aspx?