I'm looking for suggestions as to what to use for break in oil on a newly rebuilt Y block.  Thanks  DV

SE Wis

Brad Penn 30w.  That's the stuff!

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I was thinking a lighter oil like 10w should be used for break in. Where do I find this Brad Penn oil. Thanks  DV

SE Wis

The exact oil being used depends upon clearances and intended application.  But for myself, normal rebuilds gets Valvoline 10W-40 which has the prerequisite amounts of zinc/phosphorus for the older camshafts and lifters.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

You can get Brad Penn on eBay or from Oregon Cams, that's who I buy it from.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

The topic of oil usually gets a good discussion going. Here are a couple:

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic16672-3-1.aspx?

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic9285-3-1.aspx?

I like 10W30 or 10w40 because I want the oil to be thin in case there is a clearance a little too tight somewhere and it circulates quicker. I stay away from Diesel oils because they are formulated for Diesel engines. Although I have never had a failure, I put ZDDP in everything from a Farmall tractor to a new engine. I don't want to mention brands because I have sold lubricants all my life.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Oil threads are usually very opinionated and the answers are almost always "I use xxx because I've never had a problem, my dad/uncle/wife/pet mechanic/etc etc etc...... used it, ad-nauseum.





For break in, it's pretty good to do what the camshaft manufacturer/grinder suggests.







That's for the most part NOT TRUE. Just about all diesel oils are certified by their own manufacturers and the SAE to be dual use. I.E: SF/CD, SG/CE, etc.



For example, Chevron Delo 400:



Select Performance Specifications

• API Service Categories, including CI-4, CH-4/SL



From Wikipedia:



Most of the oil companies do not make their own additives. Those are made by Lubrizol, Shell Chemical, Castrol, and only a few others.





Oil companies do a LOT of trading. Buying Chevron base oils might get you oil from any manufacturer in a Chevron container. Buying Royal Purple, Super Secret Owl snot, Double Slicky Sticky, or any other "name" might also get you Chevron base oil and Lubrizol/Shell/Castrol additives.



Oil and gasoline are probably the MOST heavily marketed products on the planet.



Either use what the cam manufacturer suggests or what ever makes you feel good. Either will probably do the job!





Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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I use what I plan on running all the time. No special break in oil. But I do change the first time somewhere between 500 and 1000 miles AND look it over to see what is going on inside.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

[quote][b]crenwelge (1/21/2010) I want the oil to be thin in case there is a clearance a little too tight somewhere and it circulates quicker.



If engine is room temp., and pump/galleries primed until oil runs out the rocker drains, and blueprinted clearances are known/proper (.0017-.0022"), shouldn't straight 30W be OK until it thins from running heat? Brad Penn break-in oil has a LOT of extra ZDDP.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA