All right, that makes it easier if I want to use as much marine stuff as possible, as the street engine is MP EFI, and I want it to be carburetted. Did a compression test of the engine, it's not real good but not real bad, 120 psi, when it ideally would be 190 (maybe the marine engine is different, I only have a manual for the street engine). It was a little locked up at first, but I broke it loose.



Boy, I have to say that you guys are a lot cooler than the Volvo guys...they told me it was a horrible idea in the first place, and I should stop wasting my time!

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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.

--Alan Moore

Allen,

     Crusader Marine in Michigan used y-blocks as marine engines for a number of years. There still is a parts supply of front covers and water pumps as well as a low-profile intake on e-bay, Hemmings, or here in classifieds.  Some of the folks on this site may have parts stored away. It appears that the majority of the motors were 292's with steel cranks and good truck type rods. I know there were some 312's built because I had one. Ted bought it for the First EMC engine. Turned out to be poor block though, evidently was cast in the 60's on worn out tooling. the core shift was very pronounced. They do seem to make excellent marine engines.   

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

My boat building buddy gave me a 312 that came out of a rotting hull, after disassembly I had a good 312 crank, a set of ECZ rods and a block with five holes in the cylinders where water had eaten through.  Makes a good mock-up block though. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Assuming the marine engine is using lake or sea water for cooling, you’ll find more than normal erosion of the cylinder walls in the water jacket area immediately behind the water pump and at the back cylinder where the water redirects into the cylinder head.  These engines also tend to build up with sediment in the bottoms of the water jackets which if bad enough can cause some overheating problems.  The general rust in the water jacket part of the block can also be extreme if the engine is not a closed loop cooling system design.  These blocks are also prone to freeze cracking simply due to the water not being completely drained prior to being put up for the winter.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Alan, use all the marine parts yo can but in particular use, the crank,rods and pistons. The cam will most likely give great torque at the expense of a little horsepower, use if this works for you. The carbs will work fine they are just internally vented. Block is most likely the same as are most other parts not listed in my other post. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Are there any parts on the marine engine you think I should use on the street engine, for higher durability or other reasons. Bearing in mind, I am using the fuel system from the Marine engine. It has dual carbs, which is why I was drawn in in the first place. It's just like my Volvo 240: it vaguely resembles something really great.

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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.

--Alan Moore

Alan, marine engines are usually very close to their automotive cousins with the exception of, different cam,sometimes head gasket and brass clean out plugs. Other differences are Marine starter, distributor, alternator, carb and fuel pump, all spark arrested. The biggest difference is that an auto engine driving down the highway is operating at very low throttle settings, a marine engine typically operates at 3/4 throttle so everything gets heavier wear. Volvo you are looking at is/was probably closed cooled, if not and it has had lake water or worse yet sea water through it you may find all kinds of problems.



Mike

Rimrock AZ

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Looking at the torque/hp and RPM numbers of a Y-Block, I would assume it would make an excellent marine engine. That in mind, I'm going to assume at least some of you have done some work converting a marine engine for street use.



Now I diverge greatly from any Y-Block related discussion:



My favorite car that runs is a Volvo 240 (crapmobile, but it vaguely resembles something really great). It has a little 2.3 liter 4 cylinder. Randomly one of my friends had the same engine (but a marine version) in his yard, not quite seized but a little crusty (aluminum block, so not much that can rust). I happen to have a parts engine for my car, and now also a marine engine. I'm not worried about using the marine engine in my car per se, but I'd like to build one really good engine out of my parts engine and my marine engine. Generally, what parts are worn out on marine engines and what aren't, compared to street engines?

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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.

--Alan Moore