Profile Picture

Stuck Valve

Posted By Outlaw56 15 Years Ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
Saltracer
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 Years Ago
Posts: 18, Visits: 150
Thanks Ted, I was thinking the same thing last night, it ain't gonna get any better on it's own. thanks again
Ted
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Co-Administrator

Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)Co-Administrator (13.3K reputation)

Group: Administrators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 7.4K, Visits: 205.7K
Saltracer (11/28/2010)
I let my rebuilt motor set for two years without starting it at all. Tried to crank it just the other day and wondered why it was hard at first and then freed up. Anyway, one valve is stuck and it bent three push rods before I figured it out. [b]Any ideas on how to free the valve?[/b[

Although you can try tapping on the stuck valves with the rockers removed while liberally oiling the area around the guides, this may not insure that the valves will not stick again once the engine is up and running again.  If the engine has never run, then rust may have set up in the guides around the valve stems.  It could be that the valve to guide clearance was simply set too tightly on the original build and that’s a problem that will not be rectified until the heads are pulled off of the engine.  The recommended option is pulling the heads where a complete disassembly and cleaning of the valves and guides can take place.

 

Be sure to remove any old fuel from the system as it will aggravate the stuck valve issue by ‘varnishing’ up the guides.  Always use fresh fuel when firing up a freshly built engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


crenwelge
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 512, Visits: 1.7K
Pour a couple of quarts of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb and let it set a week or so. Then pull all the plugs out and turn it over manually and see if the valves are working.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas
Saltracer
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (19 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 Years Ago
Posts: 18, Visits: 150

I have a similar problem. I let my rebuilt motor set for two years without starting it at all. Tried to crank it just the other day and wondered why it was hard at first and then freed up. Anyway, one valve is stuck and it bent three push rods before I figured it out. Any ideas on how to free the valve?

Outlaw56
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 435, Visits: 26.8K
Does anyone have a good source on push rods for the Y-Block?

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's
crenwelge
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)Supercharged (512 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 512, Visits: 1.7K
When I find a bent push rod on any old engine, I pull the rockers off and mark them so I know which goes where. I then use something like Marvel Mystery Oil. It will dissolve carbon, varnish and rust as well. I start with the one that is stuck in the open position and after the oil has had time to penetrate, I tap it and see if it returns to the height of the rest of them. While I am allowing the oil to penetrate, I squirt oil on all the valves. I hit all of the valves a pretty good lick to see that they spring back freely. Wear safety goggles because keepers can come out of a stuck valve. If you get the stuck one as well as all of the rest of them to bounce back evenly when you hit them, it is worth reinstalling the rockers and proceeding from there. They should be adjusted close enough for an initial attempt. Unless all 16 valves move freely, do not attempt to start the engine. I guess a lifter could stick, but if that happened, you probably have other problems such as stuck rings. I don't want to sound discouraging, but the last engine I found with a bent push rod, I did as described above and it runs like a top. The one before that, I wound up pulling the head, found rings that looked standard on a .060 over piston, pistons too bad to even knurl, and a flaked cam. And I think this is about par. A 50/50 chance. By the way, the bad one was a 370 cu in GMC V8 which is a rare find and I would up buying a lot of stuff from Egge.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas
Ol'ford nut
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)Supercharged (327 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 322, Visits: 1.2K
The seal is inside the valve spring. Or that is where it is suppose to be. Reason I say that is because as they get old they become brittle and break. Going into pieces that you find under valve cover or in oil pan, or maybe even plugging oil screen pickup. I've heard of the pieces getting into the oil pump, causing it to bind and breaking oil pump rod that goes up to distributer. YOU DON'T WANT THAT TO HAPPEN! Engine runs and you loose oil pressure. So watch your oil pressure gauge!

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.
aussiebill
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 1.8K, Visits: 11.4K
Stem seal is usually riding up high on valve stem below retainer, here we use WD 40 penetrate with little red straw like tube that pushes into nozzel, i,m sure you have similar type of thing there, its worth a try, then slowly rotate engine, you could lightly tap on valve stem tips to check for any firm resistance from sticking valve but generally all of the above works. I,m sure all the other guys do similar thing and could suggest other ways, try it and see, then go from there.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Outlaw56
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)Supercharged (924 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 435, Visits: 26.8K
Aussiebill,

Definitely worth a try. Exactly where is the valve stem seal, on top of the spring or below the spring? I am wondering if I have to remove the rocker assembly to access it. I am 30 miles from the truck so every time I get information, I have nothing in front of me to look at. Thanks for your suggestion.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

aussiebill
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)Supercharged (2.6K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 1.8K, Visits: 11.4K
I doubt it would be stuck lifter but would be easy to check by rotating engine while holding a long piece of rod, wire, stick, anything with downward pressure and check if lifter returns. The bent pushrod syndrome is normally result of sticking valves due to long period of engine not being started. Very common to find old bent pushrods in valley area. Just check valves move easily, perhaps lift stem seals and squirt some lube onto valve stem.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia



Reading This Topic


Site Meter