The coil and plug wires used now days have resisitance. Those readings sound okay.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

One thing that occured to me when I installed the known good (new Flamethrower II) test coil, was to check the continuity of the high voltage coil wire to the dizzy using my DVM. There is continuity, but resistance measures in the 5 to 6K ohm range. Not sure if that is OK or not. Anybody know?

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

I do appreciate everybody's responses. I am making a checklist & will go through all these again to make sure I capture all the valuable suggestions.

I can't work on it week, unexpected business last minute trip instead.

Cheers from Guangdong China!

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

Get a piece of 14 guage or so wire long enough to reach from the battery to the coil and put a couple of alligator clips on the ends to make a jumper cable.  Connect one end to the battery + and the other end to the coil + and crank the engine.  If it starts or you get spark, your problem is in the switch or wiring to the distributor.  If it doesn't, the problem is in the coil, distributor (and parts) + ground.  That's a quick sorta dirty way to get your troubleshooting started in the right direction.  You need to pull the clip off the coil to get the engine to stop and don't leave it hooked up too long for the obvious reasons.  (just like leaving the key on too long) 

Tried the spare coil. Still no spark.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

There is no resistor in the circuit. Original Pertronix & wiring had been working fine over last Summer. I have 12.6V to the unit with the key ON, haven't yet checked the voltage when cranking; will add that to my checklist. 

I do now have a spare coil to check with, & will swap that next.

I do appreciate the responses

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

That is a possibility. The Ignitor II does not need a resistor.


Lawrenceville, GA

Hey Brian;;   With my Petr. unit I did not run a resistor, this could be cutting the amount of  Voltage you sre getting to the Module.  It is a 12 volt system???  Good Luck  just words of thought!!   God Bless

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Seems to me its pretty simple as far as what to check?  There is the primary circuit; is there sufficient voltage to the coil? Have someone turn the car over while you have a voltmeter on the coil as well as when the key is on.  Check for correct voltage related to the ballast resistor (did that get fried with all of the key on testing?)

Sounds like youve tried cleaning up coil mount, but do you have a known working spare you can swap in?

Not sure how to check the pertronix unit; lost the directions to mine a while ago, but i would think there is a way to check that its working?

I guess my point is to start at the beginning of the wiring, and check each step along tha way.  Systematic approach for process of elimination.

Others who know much more than i will chime in for sure, but Im suspicious of the ballast & coil.  Please keep us posted!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

That is correct. I have replaced the original now fried Pertonixs original module with a new Ignitor II module, which their tech group says isn't prone the 'key ON causing module to burn out' issue.

I'm making a checklist of items to confirm to chase this one down & doing some internet searches on no spark troubleshooting. Suggestions are most welcome.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA