Can't find in shop manual. Anybody know for sure?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Never saw brass ones.  The center one had a longer unthreaded grip area, similar to a clutch pressure plate bolt.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Starter bolts are typically standard grade 5/16”X18X 1.125” shouldered steel bolts.  Nothing fancy.  Anything more than grade five here would be overkill.  12-15 ft/lbs torque.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Don't know where they came from. I'm guessing the guys I hired years ago to install the starter must not have liked the looks of the original bolts. I just couldn't maneuver it into position myself with a new rubber seal (it takes three hands to compress the seal and start the bolts).



My torque chart lists grade 5, 5/16" at 14 ft. lbs. Seems a bit low for a part under so much stress?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Flatheads have two, 1/4 inch diameter. They do have a bracket that attaches to one and to a pan bolt. So the YBlocks have much more.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

14 lbs is what the shop manual lists for  those bolts.I dont know if you tried this but that seal can be glued in place first.Makes it a little easier to install starter.

  

While gluing seal in place first likely a necessary step, still doesn't solve the problem. It takes a lot of force to position the starter against the new/oversized rubber, and still wiggle it enough to start the bolts. I'm surprised anyone who has a fair-weather car ever bothers to install the seal (Ford dealer mechanic that changed the starter back in the 70s sure didn't).

Also, should have checked the heads of the bolts. I have a tendency to call anything gold-colored, "brass". It's likely they are zinc-alloy plated grade 8?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel, why make things so complicated? there would be more cars Not running the rubber seal at starter without detriment! To make life a little easier, cut the top bolt a little shorter, i have no problems using 3/8" drive socket and extension which fits nicely above starter and block, and as for brass bolts? what can i say! Just use bolts as Ted points out.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Daniel - the Grade 5 capscrews will do the job and have a bit of a factor of safety - but the "plain" head or "A 307's" (my guys call them butter bolts) are way too soft. The "factor of safety" - comparison of their internal stress to "proof load" would be close to "1.0" - meaning no margin for error. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Ah yes, it's a learning process. I assume the seal was originally designed to keep dirt/water out of the Bendix drive, as it has a tendency to collect oil from mainshaft/rear seal leaks. Since I drive about 8K a year in all weather (though I avoid snow), I just thought the seal might be needed. I see now that pulling the starter occasionally to clean the drive with kerosene would be a lot less trouble than installing the seal!

As for the bolts, if they ARE grade 8 (overkill or not), I don't see any advantage in replacing them. If grade 5 torque is used, threads in bellhousing wouldn't be compromised?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA