I use this "Shoe Goo", I think it's made by the gorilla glue people. It's also nifty for shoe repair...

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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.

--Alan Moore

Thanks Steve! I hadn't realized that those aftermarket covers only have the outer lip.You must have done a real good job of cleaning if that sealer is still intact.What about the high charging rate I am seeing on the voltmeter?If the battery is on the way out and wont fully charge-would that make the charging rate increase as the rpm goes up or is there a problem with the regulator after sitting all winter.I have ordered a new battery and should get it Friday.Thanks for your help.

  

Mark - Daniel made me wake up and think about the steps I went through on the last set of covers I rigged up. I really went to some trouble to be sure that both the surface for the gasket and the wall of the cover just above it for 1/4" or so were absolutely clean - no oil film or varnish.

The gasket got put on - and the fillet above it on the inside - with a black high temp RTV. Sealed the inside edges of the cork as well. Where the tube is now ....I couldn't tell you - but it has really worked well. On the occasions I have opened the lids for lash work etc. - the fillet was intact and the home made "drip edge" was doing well.

The chrome cheapie steel covers I'm running are not like the factory parts with the nice steel inner rim - that always provided the "drip edge for the factory parts. i think that edge is important to the "no leaks" effort.   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I used the coper colored RTV on mine (it was handy), but I believe black is most oil-resistant?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Must have been close to that time, it was right before I got the last post in. that shows 4:36 am so it must have been 6:36 here. (PDT)

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Hey Steve!What are you using as a sealant?Must be good if you are exposing directly to hot oil and it still stays in place.

  

I've used the "double" cork gaskets from NPD (?). Sealed to the covers only - and when seating, I placed them on the deck of my bench saw to utilize the flat milled surface. Clamped (weighted) them down enough to get a solid fit - but not overloaded.

I also found that on the inside of the covers - the gasket sticks out enough to be a "stop ledge" for oil to accumulate on. I figured this is an invitation for a leak - so all around the inside I've place a "fillet" of sealant to allow oil to run right down onto the head  - rather than follow the protruding edges.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Tim.  I had a similar lockup or freeze problem on my end.  Took place from 8:20-8:35AM CST.  Is this the same time frame for your problem?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Insure that the valve cover gasket flange where the gasket resides is straight and true.  Also make sure that the upper part of the valve cover has not been overtightened in the past and to the point that the top of the covers have warped or pulled down too far.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Now Charlie beat me to it.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias