thought I had my SW ammeter finally hooked up but I must have done it wrong as it worked for few days, then some how killed the juice in the electric system... no click, no buzz, no nothing...

unhooked it, and everything worked fine.

anybody care to share how it can be done?  I have a SW 3 gauge panel (water temp, oil pressure and ammeter).

thanks, Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

I ran wire from hot side of starter solenoid and one to ground and it works fine. Have also hooked them up at pos side of coil. you need a point to hook up that is hot when switch is on.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

and what gauge wire have you used bird?

I presently have it set up with 10 or 12

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

I used 12 gauge.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Make sure that your ammeter is rated higher than the output of the alternator or generator. Some alternators can put out high current, above 80Amp. If your ammeter is only able to read 30Amps you will fry the gauge.

If you hook an ammeter up between the solenoid and earth be ready for the sparks flying.

You can hook a voltmeter up between power and earth but an ammeter MUST not contact earth. All you will do is burn out the ammeter or flatten the battery or both. This is a dead short to earth.

Depending on whether you have a generator or alternator fitted the wiring is a little different. On a generator fitted car remove the battery wire from the generator going to the regulator and connect that wire to one side of the ammeter, run a wire from the other terminal to where you removed the wire from. On Ford cars this is the big yellow wire going to the voltage regulator.

If you have an alternator fitted you will need to do a little more. Disconnect the wire going to the battery from the alternator from the battery and connect it to the wire which is connected to the battery side of the solenoid.By this I mean the wire which feeds all the electrics of the car and not the main wire coming from the battery.

These two wires should be connected together and no longer bolted to the solenoid, leaving just the main battery lead connected to the solenoid. A 4mm wire is also connected to these two wires and then run to one of the contacts on the ammeter. The other wire on the ammeter connects directly to the battery. If you don't remove the wires from the solenoid the ammeter will not work. Once you have the engine running the ammeter should read charge and discharge with the engine off. If not swap the wires on the terminals at the back of the ammeter.

The explanation for the wiring is that ammeters are connected in series. ie inline, and voltmeters are in parallel, ie across the power.

Fitting ammeters is generally better left to an auto electrician.

Hope this makes it clear for you

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Texas Y-Guy:       Most, if not all wiring guys, don't recomend using

                   an amp gauge because, of the danger, of that wire,

                   shorting out under your dash and burning your pride & joy

                   to the ground. All of your vehicles amp out-put would be

                   traveling thru that wire.

                          Most  say go with the volt meter, it's your call

                   I don't want anyone to damage our "Y" vehicles........

                                                  Bill

Bill

Pelham,Al

Thank you Bill, I was just about to write the same thing but you did it for me. And Birdman, I sure hope you have a voltmeter and not an ammeter, as Rick suggests the way you say you have it hooked up would fry your 'Bird.

BOB

I do have a voltmeter on my bird. I knew that all along . Just didnt read the post slow enough. Just made an assumption which one shouldn't do. Will do better next time.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Whoo, I was afraid you were going to melt that beautiful 'Bird of yours...

BOB

understood the above insights, but am wondering if the ammeter  is so much less desireable than a voltmeter, why does SW package an ammeter w/the rest of the set...?

my particular car has an alternator in place of the original generator, Pertronix dist set up and a good battery...

I followed the instructions provided with the gauge (though English translated through at least two other languages leaves a bit to be desired); had my electrician brother in law assist me and the thing worked for a few days...

may need to confirm that my alt did not overload/fry the gauge...

thanks, Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX