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Installing Flex-Plate

Posted By San Diego Ron 15 Years Ago
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rgrove
Posted 15 Years Ago
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San Diego Ron (4/22/2010)

 This is the old Bad Boy that was making all the racket with the loose riveted mounting tabs...nice to get rid of it if just for the weight of the thing. Anyone need a boat anchor?

I keep mine by the workbench as a reminder to not cheap out on stupid stuff again!  When we restored our car (frame off) I didnt want to spend the $60 for a new flexplate - I figured that "somehow" the rapping sound would be taken care of on the 2nd engine rebuild - WRONG!  Of course, by then the car was all back together, and since I dont have a lift, it wound up costing me a couple hundred bucks to have a local restoration shop swap it out for me.  STUPID on my part!  Live and learn I guess!

Im really glad this is working out for you!  You will be amazed at how much better it sounds when it doesnt sound like its going to blow a rod out the side at idle!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

marvh
Posted 15 Years Ago
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It is very important you check for clearance to the block on the flywheel bolts when using the 57 style replacement flexplate.



The 55/56 bolts used with your original flex-plate are 7/16"-20x3/4" and the later flex-plate your are now using the bolts are 7/16"-20x11/16

The difference is only 1/16", however, could be disastrous if a bolt should strike the block especially if you have any crankshaft end play.



marv
Bob's 55
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Yuummm, Isn't that what I said...Hehe

BOB


San Diego Ron
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Just double checked with TB Prod. and I do have it on the right way. It took me few tries to figure out the bolt pattern on hub only lets plate go on in one position. Not going to put engine in car today...wife wants to go to San Diego Zoo


Bob's 55
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I believe that because of the spacing of the bolts on the crank flange/flex plate that it will only go on one way... If you put it on wrong, all the bolt holes will not line up.

BOB


MoonShadow
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Looking at the pictures again It seems I was wrong. If the belly on the new one is positioned the same as the old its probably correct. The belly is necessary to fit snug to the converter. Sorry if I caused any confusion. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
San Diego Ron
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Sent note off to T-B Products and they replied that the curved edges goes toward engine...I'm taking that they are talking about the eight folded edges on each side of the four mounting points and with the dished side facing converter...the way I have it in picture, I hope, I hope! If the converter is indeed positioned correctly in bell housing, that gives me the 3/4" space to be able to bolt block to bell.


MoonShadow
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I think the picture of the old flex plate threw me. I though it was curved in not out. It's a little deceptive (or I'm a little old). Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
oldcarmark
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Just looking at the pic.I think he has it correct the way it is,If you reverse it the bolts for the torque converter wont reach the flex plate.They are not that long.There is also a an area of the covertor  that wll sit in the dish area.The convertor is not flat on the engine side.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
MoonShadow
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Those old style flex plates have caused a lot of needless repairs and even the junking of a lot of Y-Blocks with Ford O's.

Just curious but I noticed the new plate appears belly out and the old one belly in. Is that the way it's supposed to go? I think it might be reversed. The center ring is to equalize bolt pressure and prevents cracks in the flex plate.

The transmission looks like it is all the way in. You should fell it drop in (back) twice as you rotate it to get it back that far. Their are two tangs on the front shaft that engage.

Notice the two drain plugs on your converter. Those are the ones that must fit into the large holes on the flex plate. I usually set the flex plate with the holes vertically aligned and converter the same to keep me from getting dumb.

You can pour a couple of quarts of ATF into the snout of the converter prior to fitting it to the transmission. This prevents a dry start up. Be ready to add a bunch of ATF after you get it running. If you drained the transmission too its something like 6 to 8 quarts of the stuff.

Asking questions when you are not sure is never dumb or a pain. It's the only way to learn. Believe me we have all made plenty of mistakes (oversights for the more brainy ones). Let us know how the project comes out. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire



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