update:

ovencleaner: yep... good on grease (no surprise there!)

Draino: good for soaking metal parts to remove paint (again, no surprise there... just re-confirmed)

vinegar: most folks probably know this is good for rust removal as well as paint... I found out myself... soaked a few old parts bought at a junk yard just to see what would happen... wish I'd taken some "before" pics.  Got the top disc for an Edlebrock air cleaner... covered with rust... a few days soak in vinegar, the rust is gone.  Now, it does still look "vintage", but the rust is gone.  Same with some interior trim pieces and the air cleaner for my 57 Fairlane.  Six gallons of cheap vinegar, a few days soak, and they are completly stipped!

So, if you have the time to wait, the above are reasonable substitutions for the more expensive stuff.

any more "remedies" out there??

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Just be sure to clean the brake fluid off, that stuff is pretty corrosive.

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People should not be afraid of their government, a government should be afraid of the people.

--Alan Moore

WD also takes off road tar quick and easy.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

as a detailer i learnt a good trick for removing painted on sign writing simply spray it with oven cleaner let it sit for up to 10 mins wash of with a pressure washer.

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

apologies for my bad spelling... just read the first line in my original post...!!

yep on the WD40... the original "handyman's secret weapon"!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

A guy once told me that WD40 is a great adhesive residue remover - and for a long time I was a non-believer. The local Ace hardware remodeled and at the end  - they had a big pile of really nice heavy duty (and itty bitty) parts bins for small screws (carb parts) etc. They all had layers of price stickers on every pocket - lots of glued on labels of every type. There were about half a dozen 6 unit chunks of these that looked just right for a spot over my bench so.....I asked why they were so cheap - $1.00 - and no one had picked them up. I was told there had been plenty of interest - but the labels wouldn't come off without using a a solvent so strong it ruined the clear plastic fronts of the bins. So I invested the six bucks and went home to try my luck with everything in the arsenal - trying to clean them without melting the faces down. Stymied - I finally dragged out the WD40 - and it melted every bit of the adhesive off and never scarred the plastic a bit. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I normally use a DA, sandblaster and wire wheel, suck all the rust in my lungs, mix it with a little mucos and spit it out on the ground.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Here's video of using feed molasses to remove rust

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-gBAjEga1s



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCFcxf5IBw&feature=related

marv

Don't know if it's any cheaper, but brake fluid removes paint real well.


Lawrenceville, GA

I have tried the electrolysis that John mentioned. http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/other-articles/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html That is a good explanation of how it works. It works great, is pretty safe, although I prefer to use a GFI outlet when I used my setup.

1959 and 1960 f-100sAkron OH