Turns out timing is moot. Inspection reveals only a dribble from 6 mo. old accelerator pump cup (*!%$#!*). Blue cup material is obvious junk, and was stored dry (no Stabil) over the winter, so will finally try the premium black cup from CASCO I had put away. If IT stands up to alcohol, I will lay in a lifetime stock.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Paul,



Since I've been running premium exclusively these days, I usually set the timing by ear (there seems to be a narrowing window between excessive exhaust popping due to retard, and too much advance for starting). As the dual points were new, it IS possible the rubbing blocks have settled in and retarded a bit. But, your post gives me the idea of advancing timing beyond starting limit with the engine running, and taking a test drive to see if the hesitation is affected (I'll just have to be careful to not kill the motor before coming home). Is it safe to assume, I wonder, that 12V cars can routinely get away with more initial advance since the extra starting power may overcome resulting hard-cranking?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel - you might try a little more distributor advance. With the distributor change, your timing my be a little off even if at factory spec.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Brian,

     With the Demon, or as Holley, you may need to play withthe power valve a bit to cure that stumble. Try using a power valve with a 1/2 or 1 inch HIGHER number and see what happens. Don't go nuts or you'll kill your gas mileage.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Thats interesting. I have 58's in it now. But the plugs look real clean & a nice light tan

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

I don't think this will help Gentz but we put a 525 Demon jr. on Steve Johnson's (Ibuzzard) 292 and it had a slight off idle hesitation till we changed the main jets from 58s to 64s, then it was very smooth.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I'm also going through a similar symptoms, but my set up is different then your. I have a later dizzy converted to Pertronix II/Flamethrower coil, Demon Jr 525 carb. I stumble under light acceleration, but if I press the throttle further, it catches & runs smooth. BG Tech is advising me to try various timings between 10~14 degrees, adjust idle mixture for best vacuum, & dial in float levels. After that, next up would be the power valve. Plugs look fairly good with a light tan. Some of these may apply to you as well.

cheers

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

[quote]Y block Billy (5/6/2010)

---

All kidding aside, point gap/dwell and spark plug gap make a world of difference and when changed then you normally have to adjust timing and carb to match.



Interesting. I have noticed since installing dual points (more dwell) last month, I have a slight hesitation. As pump-cup was new last fall, and no gas stabilizer was used (unless alcohol ruined already), I likely need to play with the idle settings. Curious though, why more dwell might cause it?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I would suspect the accelerator pump in this case. Try seeing if the pump is working by manipulating throttle with the engine and ignition off. You should be able to see two fuel streams in the carb when you open the throttle, (obviously you'll need to remove the air cleaner first). DON'T try this with it running, unless you need your eyebrows burnt off.  This is a common problem with today's gasoline and the ethenol in it.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

ok its stock 62 292, the original 2 bbl, the original distributor with accel pointless kit...

If it aint broke, lets modify it!

1962 Galaxie 500 Town Victoria 4dr. 292 with a nice mild cam.

Salinas California.