You are welcome . 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I was going to suggest checking all of the fuel line connections/clamps to see if the pump was sucking air, but glad you found the root cause.

RB

Well I chased this problem for the better part of 3 years. I think I finally got it! Some on here said it sounded like a coil to them but I just couldn't imagine a bad brand new Mallory coil but I think that's what it was. I was at Turkey run the other day and was on the road on the back side of the speedway & my car just died. I checked gas & spark & had no spark to the plugs or out of the coil. The coil was hotter'n hell. I went to Autozone & got a new MSD Blaster 2 coil and put it on. Viola! Cranked right up and hasn't died since even while cruising Atlantic BL. So to those who said it was a coil, beggin' your pardon, you seemed to have been right. I shall never doubt you experts again. 100 lashes to me with a limpy, wet noodle!

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I can get higher octane but I don't think I can get gas around here that doesn't have ethanol in it. Vapor lock or something else it is related to the heat in the fuel pump.



I guess from Pete's yelling and attitude it's apparent I've bothered y'all long enough with this problem. I'm sorry I took up your valuable time with this and I won't bother you any more with it. I'll eventually get it "guessed" out. Accept my apology and to those who helped me thank you very much



THE END

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

E.J.  You seem to be FIXATED on VAPOR LOCK ___"I mean, everybody on this forum has what I've got, basically, and theirs isn't doing this__. "

YOU ARE SO RIGHT. Nobody else has a car that vapor locks so why don`t you look for another reason your car stalls?

Stop using cheap gas with 10% alcohol. Change the float needle tip to a metal one.

With the car in your driveway start and idle it with the air cleaner off and when it stalls, look down the carb and open the throttle and see if a stream of gas is shot out of the two squirters. If it has gas then look for something else.

Buy or borrow an infa red temp indicator as was suggested and find out what temperatures you are really dealing with. STOP GUESSING. Pete

Well Mike, the problem was there before I put the electric pump on it .. basically that's why I put the electric pump on it and it still even does it with the electric pump on (takes a little longer).. that's what's really got me baffled. I just knew putting that pump on there would fix it. The bottom line is this: there is just a hell of a lot of heat in that mechanical pump. I used to have a 57 hot rod Ford back in the 60's and it never ever vapor locked. Only difference was it didn't have the vacuum ports out the top of it. I'm just chasin' everything now.. everything that doesn't cost much .. I'm convinced I could bypass the mechanical pump and that would be the end of my problem but I don't really want to do that. I mean, everybody on this forum has what I've got, basically, and theirs isn't doing this.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

E.J. if I understand correctly you have an electric pump installed before the mechanical pump? If this is the case and the electric pump has check valves in it they could be the cause of your problem. Anything installed before the mechanical pump (such as a check valve) that raises the vacuum required to draw the fuel will also lower the vapor point of the fuel. So for instance if you have enough vacuum (or if you prefer low pressure) the fuel will begin to boil at room temperature. Same thing happens with water, at sea level boils at 212 degrees, at 7000' elevation it boils at somewhere around 195 due to lower pressure. Lower the pressure enough and it will boil at room temp.



Try bypassing the electric pump and see if this helps. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

The heat comes from all places.

Something else that might help is to use a durable plastic washer under the head of the bolt. This with reduce the amount of heat transferred via metal to metal contact. I'm using a similar setup to insulate my coil from the manifold heat and so far it seems to work. It'll really be tested this summer.


Lawrenceville, GA

Steve the filter is one of those clear plastic ones that you can take apart and clean. Would that heat come from the block where the pump mounts or from the lever connecting the eccentric?

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Old racer trick was to use multiple gaskets under the fuel pump flange to isolate the housing a bit from the block - doesn't help the operating lever though.

An insulating cover on the lines to the filter and carb inlet can be done in a pretty sanitary manner.

What does your filter look like?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona