There's a 338 cid on Ebay for $9,800 bucks .... lol !!! I can't even imagine such a thing ..

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Thanks for the insight Tim. PS, I love your FED project (The youtube start up video is AWESOME) and appreciate all the information you guys are willing to give.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

Glen, I couldn't agree with you more! One machine error and the engine could fail. The same holds true with buying a kit from John. One machining error, and John's kit could fail. I just really like the idea of understanding everything that goes on so that I KNOW the engine. I could very easily buy John's kit and take it to my machinist and have him assemble the whole thing- but I'd prefer to try and put it together on my own. Kind of why I fix my daily driver instead of taking it to a shop.



I realize it means many trial mock ups, and a lot of questions, and possible buying the wrong parts, only to buy the right ones later- but that's kind why I signed up for this in the first place. To get my hands dirty, and maybe develop a headache or two when the crap doesn't work right!



That being said, if John reads this, I will buy as many parts from you as I can! I want people like John to stay in business.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

Let just say, that there is absolutely nothing wrong with buying a complete kit from Mummert or having someone like Ted or Tim build up a stroker for you. I understand wanting the hands on part of it, but unless you have access to a complete machine shop and a machinist who knows y blocks, this is one part of the build better left to the pro's. Not only are you going to spend more money and time (time is money) trying to piece something together, you are taking a big chance on having it fail completely, something as simple as one machining error could foul up the whole works.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I just want to say it took me three trys to make that last post.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I tried to post earlier but the dreaded "Lock up" and I had to get to work.  Anyway I just wanted to say that I wouldn't reamend sleeving a block in all eight for a 4" bore for the street.  I was able to get away with it for a number of reasons not the least of which is I have a machine shop at my disposal but also I filled my block afterwards to stiffen it and it is only ment to run a few seconds at a time anyway.  From what I've read it looks like you are now thinking about more stroke and that is where i think i would go with a street engine and keep the bore to a max of 3 7/8".

Here is 2/100 $

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I want to buy as many parts as I can from John, because I'd love to support him. I reference his site all the time, and want to help him out for what he's done for me thus far. But a small part of me thinks buying the kit is kinda like buying a crate motor. I would love to do it on my own so that I learn what goes into the process you know?



Thanks again for all of your responses.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

I don't know that I would want to take it out to 4" because of all of the ensuing work to get everything to mesh in one block. But if a 3.60" stroke has been done I'd love to know how.



312 rod lenght= 6.252"

312 stroke= 3.442"



Increasing the stroke from 3.44 to 3.6 is going to reduce the rod length down to about 6.182. Or there abouts?

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

Easiest, John Mummert. www.ford-y-block.com

He even has stroker kits.



If you want to do it all yourself, then first you need to determine the stroke. Once that is determined, call a piston manufacturer (like Ross) and see what minimum compression height they recommend. With that, and the stroke, you'll have an idea of the maximum rod length that will work. Use a site like Summit Racing, or Jegs to find a rod length that will work best. When you've picked the rod, order the pistons. That's how I'd do it, anyway.


Lawrenceville, GA

Aussie Bill: I'm for sure not set on a 4 inch bore. I just thought it was a cool idea. But because you guys have had less than stellar experience with sleeving, and it seems there are better uses for my money to reach larger displacement I've put the idea to rest. I've got two 292 blocks in my area, one for about $150 bucks, and the other for $250. I'll probably buy the lesser expensive C1TE block and give it a good wash and magnaflux before I start going crazy.



Charlie: Where should I start shopping for aftermarket rods and pistons? I'm really that much of a newb!!!



Let's say I take the 292 out to a standard 312 (practical, and feasible with almost any 292 block). So, I can still use 312 pistons, or search around for a forged pistons (maybe Ross? I'm dropping that name so you'll think I'm smart)



And then off-set grind the crank out to whatever my Crank-Miester says will work. At that point where should I look for aftermarket rods?

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie