Great to here you got it fixed.That was maybe the reason the previous owner sold it.?

  

It is finally fixed.  I replaced the electric pump with one for a 66 Tbird with a 428.  Fixed the metal fuel line.  Also checked the tank, it was already cleaned and sealed.  Put in fresh gas.

I took it out for a long test drive.  Let it sit a while at idle then drove again.  Then turned it off and let the heat sink into all the components an drove it out again.  All of these conditions are the same as those that caused the original stalls.  The car ran fine through all of them without a stall. 

I also checked the temps with an IR thermometer.  Running; 160 on the radiator, 200 on the engine, 140 on the fuel line to the carb, and 105 on the fuel line into the pump, 195 on the engine.  After sitting with engine off all these temps rose to the 195 mark but went back down when cranked up and running for a few minutes.

So whether it was the pump location, vapor lock or bad gas it seems to be fixed now.

I do believe I felt the issues with the distributor not advancing so that, the plugs and wires will be the next project.

Thanks for the help.  This thread as wells as several others here were very helpful. 

If I understand your  last post the gas was in there when you bought it in March OR was it new gas in March?Even if it was fresh in March put fresh in it now.Three month old gas isn't great.You can run both  electric and stock pumps together.If you leave the electric off the stock pump will still work fine.The fuel pump on mine is for an early 60's Ford with 352 I believe.All steel with no filter in it.Good for you that the tank is in good shape.One less expense.

  

I bought an inline electric pump that I mounted at the tank and run a 427Fe hipo pump at the front. I only use the electric pump on hard runs with the McCullouch. The car had a tendency to empty the fuel bowls on a mechanical pump alone. I think the pump was SW but not sure. Its only a couple inches around and fits directly in the fuel line with a small clamp bracket.

Do you have any rubber hose ahead of the electric pump? I've see old hose develop a break on the inside that acts like a flapper valve. You can blow back through it easily but when fuel passes through it flops down and blocks the line! Rare, but it does happen. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I pumped the tank dry using the electric pump with a hose to a gas can.  It pumped about 16 gallons all the way to dry without slowing at all.  Pulled the tank and it is perfectly clean and appears to have been sealed by the previous owner.  The pump was way forward, about midway down the drivers door.  I am going to reposition it to right at the tank.

I am now back to flow from the electric pump or vapor lock.  I researched vapor lock a little and found 2 conditions that may have contributed.  High altitude and winter blend gas in warm weather.  I had both, I am at high altitude and the gas was in it from March when I bought the car.  Problem occurred after I started driving it when it warmed up.  It appeared visibly to be vapor lock in the line at the carb.  I think the restarting by turning over for a long time, while also a fix for flooding, may have allowed the electric pump to overcome the vapor lock in the line.

I have read about installing the electric pump and keeping the mechanical also.  Anyone have an opinion?  My other idea was to go mechanical with the FE pump.  I am putting it all back together tonight with some new gas and will let you know.

That's not unusual. Some is boiling off, some may be siphoned through the main jets or accel pump. The time you'd want to check would be while it's idling.....hot. I'd put it in the drive way, take the aircleaner off and let it idle for a while until the stalling/loading up happens. Try to duplicate the condition you described in the first message.  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

OK it sounds like the line is hooked to the correct fitting. Mine also has a drain on the bottom passenger corner and an outlet in the middle about 1 1/2" above the bottom of tank. For what it is worth if you check the fuel level in my teapot carb after shutting off the engine the fuel level is 1/2" below top. After a couple hours it is 1 to 1 1/4" below the top. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

I'm a little confused by some of the answers. If you have to floor it to get it to start, then it is flooded, not out of gas. This is common with the tea pots. The carb will only want 4-6 lbs of inlet pressure or it may not seal. Also if it's been rebuilt and has a Viton seat it will not seat, / or will stick shut. In that case it will act like it ran out of fuel. I realize that you've replaced the carb, and that means now you're into the distributor issue. You'll need a later one with mechanical, and vacuum advance as you've been instructed.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The fuel line on mine is at the centre front on the low part of tank.The drain plug is in the front corner.Is yours different?As for a filter I was under the impression there is a sock inside the tank?

  

 Chimest64

for what it worth, the gas tank in my '56 had that renu done, it started coming off and I checked on the lifetime warranty..it was good only at the place that did the work and they were out of buiness so I decided to go with a new tank and If I remember right was like $200 including shipping but can't remember now where I got it..I you need I can look it up for you but I found several place in Hemmings that had tanks at a reasonable price.

Location:Washington,Ia