I purchased a 55 Monterey at auction in April.  It has 12 volt conversion and is running on an electric fuel pump.  It is the stock 292 with a tea pot carb.  It is very cold natured when starting.

A couple of weeks ago I went out for a ride and it was driving nicely.  Came to a red light and had to sit a few minutes.  The engine starting idling rough and sputtering as if choking for gas, then cut off.  I tried turning it over and it would turn over but not fire up.  Got it to the side of the road and tried to start numerous times.  I have a glass filter leading to the carb and it had gas in it.  Finally called a friend to come help, we got a gas can (I did not know if the gauge was accurate but was read 3/4 of a tank.  Put 2.5 gallons in and went to start.  Same thing, it turned over but did not fire.  I pushed the pedal to the floor and turned over for about 15-20 seconds and it sputtered then fired up.  Drove home fine and restarted several times that day as I did work on it and moved it around the garage.

I assumed it was out of gas and the gauge was wrong.

Today I started it and let it idle and warm up while I worked on other things (about 30 minutes).  Took it out to fill it up with gas and it was running and driving good.  It only took 2.5 to 3 gallons and was full, so I guess the gauge is correct.  Drove  about 1/4 mile up the road and stopped to make a left against heavy traffic, so was stopped for a couple of minutes.  It sputtered and cut off just like before.  It would turn over but not fire as before.  This time I floored the pedal and turned it over for a good 5-10 seconds and it fired up. 

I pulled into the lot and turn right around to head home it started to sputter again waiting to pull out so I kept it reved up until I got rolling again.  It drove fine home but started sputtering and stalled while pulling into my garage.  I was feathering the gas to get it parked right where I wanted.  Floored it, turned it over for a few seconds and it fired up again.  Left it in neutral and it ran smooth.

My guess is it seems to be flooding in drive while sitting still.  Is this a tea pot problem. Any suggestions.  My plan is to put a B manifold on with a new Holley or Edelbrock carb.  But I don't want to do that and have a fantom problem to chase down. Sorry for being long but I thaught a full description would help.

One thought that comes to mind is this.If the carb was rebuilt at some point which it likely was the inlet needle is probably one of the soft-tip types.They detereorate because of the additives in todays gasoline.They tend to stick in the closed position cutting off the gas.Also most rebuilders do NOT reinstall the clip that holds the needle to the float and as the float drops its supposed to pull the needle down.The answer is to replace the needle and seat with an original all steel type.You can find them on Ebay or some of the obsolete parts dealers would have them.As far as the original teapots go-some peple swear by them and most swear at them.

  

There is a big fat screw in the top back where the needle and seat are located, if it is not tight or the gasket is leeking this can cause flooding and do what you're talking about.

-Gary Burnette-

I seem to rember reading somewhere that there is now a  much better replacement available for that inlet needle cover.Just cant remember where I ran across it.

  

From my own personal experience the tea pot can be made to run very nicely if you can learn enough to properly understand it's inner workings. I ran one on my 55 Tbird for several years before finally giving in to the urge to replace it with a 465 Holley. Of course I had to upgrade the distributor because the tea pots used the Load o matic vac only distributor. Anyway the point is the car starts and runs so much better with the Holley that I should have made the swap years ago. Might be something for you to consider.

Pete

Two things I would check

1. Is the choke closing fully when warmed up?

2. Do you use the electric pump all the time or only on start up? My T-pot used to do the same thing and i found the pump was forcing fuel past the float needle and flooding it. If i switched to mech pump after starting it ran fine.

I too replaced the TP with a more modern Holley (390) which also involved new manifold and later dist. But i never looked back.

Cheers

Richard

If your plan is in fact to replace it with a newer carb and manifold I think that would be the answer to your problem.The trouble you are experiencing is mostly from the carb.You will need a carb and later 57+ distributor which you can buy at most auto parts stores.Order one for a 1964 Ford F100 pickup with 292 motor.The reason you need a distributor is that your current one is a "loadomatic"vacuum controlled only which only works with the original carb.You will also need a 57-74 distributor cap and rotor if not with the newer distributor.Some come with these and some dont.Carb choices are many.390,465 Holley,Edelbrock or Barry Grant Road Demon for example.I have not yet heard a negative comment from anyone who has done this swap myself included.

  

I too had the same issue with my 55 Bird. I had a 600 cfm Holley on it and when it got warm it would stall at idle. I went thru an ordeal with it. I am the kind of guy that doesnt want to make a 1000 adjustments in hopes of it working. I buy new parts. This is what I did . Took off the gas tank and had it cleaned out. New Stainless fuel lines,new fuel pump,and I had the carb rebuilt. The rebuilder told me the carb had 2 different size jets in it and the needle and seats were not correct . After all that it is like new now. You can follow the suggestions on my thread hard/hot starting.  I do believe the issue was the carb to begin with. But the lines and the tank were in need of attention. It didnt cost that much to do all this. Tank cleaning- $35,fuel lnes form inline tube -$65,fuel pump- free, carb $150. 2 pints of blood and a gallon can of hand cleaner- Priceless.    

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Thanks everybody.  I went back out yesterday evening and drove around for about an hour.  At stop lights I put it in neutral and kept the RPM  up.  It ran fine.

I also like to go out and know I will  not be stranded.  I am going to go through the system and swab the carb.  Can anyone tell me how to identify the distributor.  I know the car was restored extensively a few years back, but I do not know which distributor is in it at present.  The Mummert site says if you take the cap off you should see a spring right on top?  I did this and do not see a spring.  Do they have different caps?  If so I could match to what is on it now.

Chemist: the distributor has a number stamped on the housing . Usually in the back so ,its out of sight . just turn it a bit and it will be visible. think the the one you want is FEK or FEH 12127 . BTW I have a 600 CFM Holley for sale. I put an Edelbrock on the bird. 

55Birdman  Hickory NC