Profile Picture

12 volt conversion and gauges

Posted By Chemist64 15 Years Ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
bergmanj
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 257, Visits: 3.9K
Arrgh! Attachment did not work: See drawing on previous post as listed.



Regards, JLB


55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top
bergmanj
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)Supercharged (541 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 257, Visits: 3.9K
Chemist64,



I'm assuming that this is wired standard for '55 Ford products: See previous Post 22179 on this very same subject.



If wired standard, both Temp & Fuel gauges will go to "over-high" with ignition in "off" position - this is normal! This is a "King-Seeley" gauge system, which operates on "different" principles than most other gauge systems, and was specifically designed to be operated on a 6V-ONLY system (they will operate for a while on 12V - but will eventually burn-out). In 1956 model-year, the same system is used, but specifically designed for 12V system; the senders and gauges are NOT the same!



Also see attached gauge wiring drawing.



The reason that your "charge" meter (really an ammeter - not "voltmeter") is going the "wrong" way is that the '55's were + ground; and, your car was probably converted to - ground in the 12V conversion: This would reverse the meter polarity: As stated above, you need to reverse the gauge connections to correct this.



I hope this will help you in your endeavor.



Regards, JLB


55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top
Chemist64
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Turbocharged

Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 49, Visits: 447
They are all the stock gauges.  The voltmeter is just a Discharge/Charge gauge with no numbers.  It appears to work, just backwards.  The gas gauge seems to be reading correct.  I assumed it was not because I misinterpreted my original stalling issue to be an out of gas situation.

The temp and oil gauges are pegged at max from start up.  I think I'll swap the temp sending unit and see if that makes a difference.  Seems to me the easiest thing to try.


paul2748
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)Supercharged (6.8K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.6K, Visits: 497.7K
If the "voltmeter" has heavy gauge wires going to it, it is an ampmeter. Measures different things.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

oldcarmark
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 3.7K, Visits: 32.6K
You should try and determine if the voltage has been dropped down to the gauges.An inexpensivemultimeter would be useful.Touch one wire to the power terminal on the gauge and one to ground.Read the voltage.If it is still 12 thats why they are likely not working correctly.If it is 6 volts the senders may be at fault.You need the correct original senders.Not something off a later 12 volt vehicle.Does the voltmeter read in numbers or just show charge/discharge.The other option is to install a set of decent aftermarket gaugfes under the dash.The original gauges are not overly accurate although it would be nice to get the gas gauge working right.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
Chemist64
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Turbocharged

Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 49, Visits: 447
Thanks for the info.  I thought the same about the volt meter but did not want to try it without input from someone who knew.

Do you think the screwy readings from the temp and oil could be the sending units?  Would these read high if bad or not at all.


oldcarmark
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 3.7K, Visits: 32.6K
The voltmeter is fairly easy to correct.On the back if there are 2 terminals just reverse the wires.How high does it read?Is it an ammeter or voltmeter?If you follow the wire from the ignition switch it powers the gauges.There should be a resistor or stepdown device somewhere behind the dash where the wire goes first and then to the gauges.I think there must be one if the gauges work at all because putting 12 volts to a 6 volt gauge will usually fry them right off the bat.Try grounding the fuel gauge wire in the trunk with the ignition switch on.There should be a little access cover to get to the sender.If it goes to full on the dash the problem is with the sender or wire from sender to dash gauge'.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
Chemist64
Posted 15 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Turbocharged

Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)Turbocharged (63 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 49, Visits: 447
I bought a restored 55 Monterey.  It has a 12 volt conversion but is otherwise stock.  It has a number of show plaques from the last few years and I assume from the overall condition that it has been driven for at least a few years after the restoration.

The temp gauge pegs out at max when the car is started and come down to 3/4 when cruising.  The oil pressure gauge goes to 80 and stays.  The volt gauge goes to the center when running and moves toward D when the engine is revved up.  I thought the gas gauge was reading incorrect at 3/4 tank when empty but that may not be the case.

The temp and oil are reading way high and the volt meter seems to be opperating oposite of what I expect.  Is this a symtom of the switch from pos ground 6V to neg ground 12V? 

I have read about putting the oltage regulator on the gauges for the conversion.  I do not know if that was done.  If I do this is there a guid out there on how to wire it to the gauges?

Thanks




Reading This Topic


Site Meter