Holley sells them with correct bracket to fit my 4160 carb.Gotta check my local supplier for price.ALWAYS more than US sales price.

  

Hey Old Car;;    Try to fine a Dashpot (with bracket) for the carb, used by the factory for several years, acts as a shock when the tthrottle closes, useful especialy on automatic car.   I'm sure John or Ted knows about these, ..   Good Luck   God Bless   Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Hey Steve.Yeah its running much better.Not 100% but but getting there.Idles in neutral at about 550 and in drive at 475-500.I have the primary idle speed screw at 3/4 turn from closed(still within specs as per transfer slot and does not expose the ported vacuum fitting)..Have a VERY small amount on the secondary buttterfly open.Issue I am having now is deacceleration.I think what is happening is the throttle closes when gas is released and just prior to stopping it acts like it will stall.Probably because there is not much throttle plate open.As you slow right down idle picks up again.I am thinking I may need to  add a dashpot to slow throttle closing.Now the clear Holley plugs are another story.After the first ones blew out I bought 2 more.Installed them today and ONLY cranked the motor to fill the float bowls and check for leaks.Guess what?Both plugs promptly disintergrated.Never fired the motor.I contacted the seller and he says that Holley had a bulletin on this problem and it relates to additives in the fuel.SO I guess I cant use them. Anyway it seems I was right about excess play in the distributor shaft.Waiting for the Pertronix 2 to arrive and I will install that and see whether that makes any difference as far as improved ignition.By the way,I tried both methods of vacuum feed to the distributor.What happens with the straight manifold feed is that the idle speeds up and then the centrifugal kicks in and speeds it up more and then the idle speed is way to fast again.So for now I will go with Ted's preference and use the ported feed off the carb. Thanks again for all the input from everyone!

  

So the million dollar question is...

Does the engine now stay running on transfer from neutral to "drive"?

If so, what is the rpm drop?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Thanks for the explanation Pete! The whole idea of reducing the verical freeplay to .022 as I have done is to eliminate the tendency that you describe.After pulling the plugs and cleaning and regapping ,the timing is now stable.Rev it up and it returns to initial setting as it should.So I think my "repair"  was successful after all.At the same time I had it apart I installed a pair of light springs that Mr.Gasket sells.Makes a big difference in the way the car accelerates now.Very noticeable improvement and well worth the $6.00 cost.Appreciate all the suggestions.Thanks Guys!

  

Mark

  What I was trying to describe is the helical nature of the cam drive gear to push the distributor driven gear up as it rotates  and so the entire distributor shaft and the rotor move up and the timing is advanced. So the fit of the distributor gear on the cam gear might be an issue to check.

   At this point have you considered exchanging the new distributor for another one? Who knows. Hang in there. Pete

Thanks Charlie! I think you are remembering the circlip that holds the upper cam assembly to the lower shaft.Fits INSIDE the opening and snaps onto the lower shaft to stop the cam assembly from coming off.I dont see a clip listed in my parts book for the 59 and later 8 cylinder distributors to hold the rotor in place.Looks like just a press fit.

  

The thing engaged in the slot is probably what I call the clip. It's round and each end is bent up. I'm going off memory but it's probably 3/8" diameter.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie-If there is supposed to be a clip it is NOT there.On the loadomatic there is one but on this newer 57+ right now the rotor just sits on the shaft with the little thing inside engaged in the slot on the upper shaft.Is there supposed to be a clip holding it in place?Thanks Pete.I have had the gear off 3-4 times playing with getting the endplay right.Its a new gear and its tight on the shaft.I dont see how it could move at all.Eliminating the extra endplay should have solved any tendency to move up and down.

  

Mark

   First, good work on identifying the problem. Is there any possibility that the gear on the end of the distributor is walking up and down as it runs against the cam gear and that is changing your engine timing? I do not mean loose on the shaft but galled or a burr that is going up and then down and advancing and retarding as it rotates?

   Keep at it, you almost have it. Pete