Isnt this the same thing??????

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Doug,

I assume the wood blocks are merely for spreading stress across the web face, as opposed to jamming them between the flanges for reinforcement (which would require custom/convex shaping)?

Tom,

I can always use the chain hoist to control/aid rotation.

Bill/Tom,

I am leery of altering orig. designs, which may threaten stability. Trial & error discovery of real world physics limitations could prove rather tricky.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

with accessories on the Y Block might be a 3 GO-rilla job to rotate it.

Be safe and keep body parts out from under it.

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

My engine stand was to wide to go between the legs of my engine hoist,so what i did was cut a couple inches off each of the front legs and relocated the casters,problem solved,it now goes under far enough to hook.i put a small amount of white grease on the shaft of the engine stand to make it rotate easier.   Carl

Dan, i,m supprised your engine lifter doesnt extend out far enough to enable engine stand to be accessable, i often extend the boom out past the last hole and have a chain and bolt to stop it slideing out, just should,nt try moving lifter too far while extended. As for rotating engine, friction comes into play due to the weight on the rotating head of the stand and slowly rotating engine using pipe or bar as lever works, usually easier without heads on. All of the above has worked for me over 40 yrs.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Boom is fully extended to the 500 lbs. hole. If I had bothered to plan ahead/take measurements, I would have bought a stand with a narrower stance (likely what you have, unless your hoist if different).



While I'm on the subject, since my stand has no crank and the heads are already installed, what kind of trouble can I expect when rotating 180 degrees? Will this be a two-gorilla job? The tube head is tilted back a bit, unlike other stands I've seen. Could maybe affect rotational friction?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Can you just slide the legs in and the boom out enough to get it on the stand?  That is what I did.  (I took off the exhaust and intake manifolds to make it a little lighter)

Thanks Doug,

I had considered rigging a double hook/link arrangement using the lower flanges on both sides of the I-beam (to spread the load), but hesitated due to limited overhead space required for the hoist gear, and the fact that one side of the beam abuts my furnace duct. I like your idea better, and will likely just bend the ducting out of the way for access.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Any chance we could have that in English? Oh, never mind, forgot where you are.

1

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

"is to get a chain hoist and drill attaching bolt holes in the I-beam flanges. If anyone with construction experience advises against this, I'm all ears! "

Generally not a good idea to drill the flanges of the bottom of an I beam.  Instead put wood blocks on either side between the flanges and then drill through the wood and web of the beam.  Run about a 1/2" bolt through a loop of chain, the blocks, and the center of the beam's web. This transfers the load into the beam at neutral axis of the beam, the location of minimum stress from the rest of the load ie pool table etc. Drilling the flanges removes material from an area of much higher stress.

 

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.