Y-Guy Duck:       Man,we need MORE pictures....That Bird is awesome...

                                                 Bill

Bill

Pelham,Al

HOLY SMOKES! My pic actually shows up now???? I gotta believe one of the administrators rolled the chicken bones & threw some magic dust in the fire (under a full moon) for me! Gracias! /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

Turning the engine over with the starter is not turning it over fast enough to put additional oil on the cam lobes and/or lifters.  Only starting up the engine and running it can accomplish this.  Just insure that the camshaft lobes and lifters are thoroughly lubed during assembly prior to the engine being started.  It goes without saying that there should be no unnecessary ‘grinding’ on the starter when attempting to start the engine for the first time which means filling the carb up with fuel and insuring the ignition timing is in the ballpark.  The comprehensive list of other items that can promote premature lifter/tappet wear should have also been addressed during the engine build before attempting to start the engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The theory 50 years ago was to circulate the oil in the bearings and wrist pins. I'm not sure if its necessary. I have always done it that way and it seems to work. I am a firm believer in ZDDP or a comparable zinc additive for any flat tappet engine. My father sold oil for one of the companies that licensed the zinc patent. They used to market it under the name as oil plating. My father would routinely drain all 8 qts of oil out of his GMC pickup, drive it about a hundred yards and back and put the oil back in and the pickup did this for years. Oil without the zinc would seize up quickly. It was a very convincing sales demonstration, Once the patent ran out, all companies added zinc. However, now it is considered enviornmentally unsafe.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Will the starter spin the motor fast enough to oil the cam adequately? If the drill is run until oil flows from the rocker tubes, wouldn't immediate start & high RPMs be better?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks guys- I guess I'll try to find some straight SAE30 and pick up some EOS. Seems I heard 6 qts. for a dry engine here before, as well (?) -Thanks- /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

I honestly don't think that the  brand or type of oil really matters  that much .??? What does matter is  the amount of zinc or phosphorus in the oil ?? That's why it is critical that Comp Cams additive  or similar is used on the initial start up and run in .I learnt the hard way .Wasted a lot of money because I used an oil with no zinc .Just my 2 cents worth .

Lon

yblocksdownunder

Can break-in oil be used as a zddp source?

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Even if plain 30 wt is obsolete, it works. I like ZDDP for insurance that the cam is being lubricated. While Diesel engine oils are good for later on. I don't like the high detergent for break in. And if you look at the latest specs, they have less zinc added all the time. They are designed for a roller tappet world that is emissions crazy. I like to turn the oil pump with a drill motor until oil flows. Then crank it for a minute or so with no spark plugs to make sure oil has reached everything. Break in is a period in which the rings need to seat which is accomplished with heat and varying the rpm. Make sure you maintain water temp of 18o even if it means putting card board in front of the radiator. Your bearings will have to wear in a little during this period. Then drain the oil when it is good and hot. I like to let it drip overnight. Then put in the oil of your choice.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Valvoline 10/30 VR-1 with Comp Cam breakin additive for cam breakin.  Changed oil and filter a couple times and now run straight Valvoline 10/30 VR-1, with valves at 90 lb. seat.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.