I'm having a problem.  I changed my points and coil today and now the truck will not run.  It ran before I did this.  I tried everything including trying the old coil and still nothing.

Any ideas.

I don't believe this truck has a ballast resistor.  I think it has a resistor wire.  Is there any reason why I couldn't run a new ignition wire and add a ballast resistor?  Current is running from the ignition wire to the coil and current is running from the coil to the points.  I checked this, but still no spark from the coil. I don't understand what went wrong.

Thanks.

1964 F250

http://ironclad.shutterfly.com/51

Did you set the points gap?


Lawrenceville, GA

Make sure you retrace your steps on your install.......... points should be adjusted too .016  condenser should be new as well, make sure coil is connected correctly and make sure the rotor button has not been damaged and is seated all the down, and ground wire is reatached inside dist.

-Gary Burnette-

Did you hook up the little braided ground wire which goes on with the point fixed screw?No ground to points-wont run.Yes you can run a new wire from ignition switch to an external type ballast resistor but I think your trouble is in the points you installed.With the cap off is there a spark at the points as they open and close?

  

Make sure the wire that connects to the points and the condenser wire that connects with it are not touching anything other than the points post. If either wire is touching any metal it will ground the ignition creating a no spark condition. Very easy to do. Check both wires also to make sure the are not pinched between any metal parts including where the wire exits the distributor. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Yep, new condensor.

Nope, no spark at the points. 

Yep, ground wire attached.

I can't even remember how many points I have installed over the years, never had a problem like this. Just plain strange.

1964 F250

http://ironclad.shutterfly.com/51

It is possible you have defective points.If you have power to the points and a good ground it should work.It is possible the "bypass"circuit which provides full 12 volts to start the car has a short.There should be 2 wires to the the + side of the coil.Gets full 12 volts from the solenoid in the "I" position when you turn the key.Try running a booster cable from the  "I"   terminal on the solenoid  to the + side of the coil.1st remove the wire terminal already on the Ï" terminal of the solenoid so you dont send 24 volts to the coil if the wire is not shorted.Start it with the ignition key as normally done.

  

I'd bet you've gotten hold of a new, defective condenser- Try swapping it out for a known good one /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

This sounds like you have fitted the points and have somehow shorted out the wire where it connects to the points.

Generally they have an insulator which isolates the stationary point block from the spring arm connected to the moving point contact. Check where you have the wire connected to the points.

The fact that you have power to the coil would suggest that you have the wire from the coil to distributor connected directly to earth.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Rick, i,m with you on this, recheck the braided earth strap under the  "point retaining screw" has not rotated around with the screw while tightening and is touching the point spring strap causing power to earth out.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia