I have a 312 with a WCFB Carter in a 56 Merc Monterey Wagon. At the rear of the carb there is a brass block with (2) connect points. A hard line from the fuel pump is on (1) connect point and the PCV hose is on the other connect point. I have a dual diaphragm vacuum advance where the secondary diaphragm hose is teed off the PCV hose. The primary diaphragm has a hard line coming from in front of the carb. The wipers have a hose coming from the other connect point on the fuel pump. The vacuum gauge is teed off the PCV hose. Thanks AR

Do you have vacuum wipers?Tee into that hose(for the vaccum gauge NOT PCV).Where  is your distributor vacuum line plugged into?There are fittings available at parts store that will screw in and accept 2 lines.I dont remember what vehicle you are working on.Please refresh my memory.

  

Good Point. In my case I have constant vacuum at that source. I do have a Motor Minder vacuum gauge in the car that shares this hose. The problem is that the gauge reads lower than it should because it is sharing vacuum with the PCV valve. I have not be able to figure out how to get a seperate vacuum for the gauge. Thanks-AR

AR,



Are you sure that carb. port is below-the-throttle/manifold vacuum? If not, with the draft tube blocked off there would be no crankcase ventilation or pressure relief at idle. That might result in accelerated sludge accumulation.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Paul, This engine has an after market PCV valve that I believe was installed around 1990 by a previous owner. This PCV system has a hose running from the oil cap filter to the air cleaner. Another hose from the PCV valve located on the valve cover to a vacuum port at the rear of the Carburetor (Carter original) However the road draft tube was never blocked off. So when I bought the car 3 years ago I removed the road draft tube and blocked it off. I was told that was the correct thing to do with a PCV system. What do you think?

Thanks for you comments - AR

AR; An often contributing factor in sludge buildup is lack of crankcase air circulation. Make sure your crankcase air intake, which on a stk engine is only thru the oil filler cap screen, is clean. If it won't cleanup well, replace the cap. Also, if your engine has the canister on the drivers side of the block, there is a horse hair filter in there. It needs to be clean.

Paul

Great to hear you fixed the oil flow.Congrats on a job well done.Depending on how bad the sludge is and if its "solid" in place I would leave it and change the oil regularily.Just my opinion but you risk bits plugging oil gallerys if you try and remove it with scrapers etc on the heads and lifter valley if you take the manifold and centre pan off to clean inside.

  

I am reporting that after disassembling and cleaning the rocker arms oil flow has been restored. During this process I did noticed that I have a light sludge built up in the engine. Is there a "gentle" way of slowly cleaning the engine without causing other major problems or just leave it alone. Thanks again- AR

Oil pump is counter clockwise rotation.

  

If you haven't yet I would still turn the oil pump with a drill motor to see the oil come out before reinstalling the rockers.  If you have a cross drilled cam you will need to rotate the engine slowly by hand to line the holes so oil will flow.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias