The less expensive four wheel engine stands that are being sold do an adequate job of supporting most engines, the Y included.  Many are rated at 1000 lbs which is more than adequate.  They space the back of the engine about 3” from the block plate and with some modifications, you could space it a bit further out if so inclined along with a set of longer matching bolts.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hey, I like that!



But I think if you're going to bolt up a big auto-trans, you might need a rear support with wheels too!






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Wow, that is a really nice little stand!  I'll have to keep Stumpy's 'bookmarked' until I'm ready to purchase. 

Hey, as long as we're talking engine stands here, let me put this question out there: anyone here have trouble with the universal stands?  Specifically, that they allow enough block-sag to mess with main bearing bore line readings, etc?  I really was interested in getting a rotating universal stand, but am not so sure anymore that they provide enough support for the entire block.

They work great for hauling an engine in the back of a truck too.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Stumpy's stands are excellent. It really does hold an engine and transmission, though you might not believe it when you first see them.

http://www.stumpysfabworks.zoomshare.com/1.shtml


Lawrenceville, GA

Can you post a link or tell me more about Stump"s stands?

I"ve not seen them before.

Oldmics

I'd recommend the four wheel engine stands just for safety sake, they are still cheap enough if you look around. I see them used on craiglist all the time.



I also recommend the floor stands that Stumpy's sell on EBAY. They are pretty handy especially if you are bolting up a trans.

Unlike me though you need to get the metal casters not the hard rubber, they work, but it makes it a little tougher to move around.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Make sure to grease the stand's hub.  It makes rotating the engine much easier.   I found a couple three wheel stands for next to nothing used.  They are good for holding blocks, less heads.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Thanks Charlie, I am looking at the selection that Summit has online. The folding one is a good idea but I will look at the how the front wheels are aligned.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Any one of the universal stands should work. I would go for one with 4 or more wheels over the 3 wheel designs. 3 wheels are not too stable. Folding stands are nice for hobby type work. If you get a folding stand, pay attention to the wheel layout. Some are crappy. Mine is crappy. The front wheels, instead of pointing straight ahead, are pointed away from each other. This makes it very difficult to move because the wheels fight each other. It's easy to fix if you can weld but it's easier to simply pay attention to the design before you buy.


Lawrenceville, GA