I wasn't trying to squeeze every last drop of power out of it. If I had been, I would have gone with the Borla's (only muffler I have ever seen that increased hp over straight pipe) and probably 2.25". Since everything I am doing on the car is of a retro flavor I decided on the glasspacks for their sound. The car is normally driven (almost every day) under 2k rpm so it just made sense to go with 2". I am waiting until I talk to a local shop about doing an AOD conversion (very doubtful it can done w/o cutting frame in which case I won't) and then the muffler shop is going to install a crossover. We found a place to stick it very close to the collectors and it will cross in front of the tranny pan. From listening to others here it seems that the motor has to come out w/the tranny instead of dropping from under the car, so having the tube down there should not cause much trouble. We did talk about having the mufflers to the rear of the X-member to allow for the crossover but it should work better closer to the collectors (about 14" after tube convergence).

I agree, sound is important, especially to this old guy trying to relive his youth. 

Jan  Urbanczyk  Major USMC Ret.

                                                                 Bowie Maryland

Yeah but you cant "rack off" a Flowmaster!

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Re the mufflers, as I understand it, Flowmaster 40s are in effect racing mufflers so may not be a good street choice. Further, as Holun alluded to, many of us are still laboring under the misconception that 1950/60s straight thru style mufflers sound good & are better for performance. First once a guy gets over 21 years old, many of them just sound terrible &  are flat out annoying. Further, many of the old standbys, possibly incuding Smittys & Cherrybombs, were designed with louver type perforations for limited sound control. Modern tests have shown that most of those mufflers are just noisy & do little or nothing to improve performance. Frank/Rebop's Flowmasters & some Turbo styles are a good examples of  none straight thru mufflers, that actually improve performance, & or reasonably control noise. Forget about those 1950s/60s straight thru junk mufflers!             

Paul

On glasspacks, make sure they have perforated core instead of louvers, the louver types are not worth a damn, might as well run straight pipes if you got the Louver ones.



I have smithys, and it sounded like fire crackers going off at when i floor it, until I got those resonated tips in, they made the car sound so much better, all rumble, no firecrackers

The choice has been made. 2" with 28" glasspacks. They are not cherry's or smithy's but sound very, very 50's. A little bit louder than the Midas turbos that were on there but not enough to annoy.



Thanks to everyone for the input and help.

Ask Y Blocker what he runs on His 'Bird. It sounds BAD from behind, but isn't too loud.

         My Flowmasters have a resonant point around 2000 rpm, and very little rap coming down. They also work, car is as fast with the mufflers hooked up asi tis with the plugs open. But they're 3 chamber mufflers and 2 1/2 inch pipes. 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I've "narrowed" it down to Flowmaster 40's, cherry bombs, Borla turbos, or whatever cheapie glasspack the muffler shop has on hand. Borlas are out since I am not trying to squeeze every last drop from the motor and can't justify the expense. Cherry bomb's (either their glasspack or flowmaster-ish welded baffle) might be good just for the sound. When installing the headers I hacked the cheapie Midas-esque exhaust off of it, and it did not sound bad like that so cheapie might be the way to go. I posted in the street forum for suggestions and might try to find the brockman's or Smithy's. Still trying to decide between 2" and 2.25".



The only thing I did decide was not to order cutouts for it. I took it out for a test drive uncorked (where did all my low end go) and it was just too loud. I figure a good exhaust will sound great with out being uncorked. The exhaust decision is taking more out of me than choosing wheels/tires did.



I havn't stopped messing with the carb/timing yet. I figured I would wait until I had the headers in to level the engine (old steady rests had it tilted) and set the float bowls a little more accurately. I am sure I will be asking for more help when that time comes.

Looks like you kept the Demon carb on there - I figure you got the sparkerizer and fuel mixer doin' what you want by now?

What kind of tin cans are you going to attach to those nifty headers? I like Al's set-up myself, the only thing I'm going to do different is put some cut-out Y-pipes on there and some black bolt-on caps peeking under the doors.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

yeah, You're gonna make old men cry.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK