I've had chatter when using reverse since I bought the truck about 8 years ago. The only things that have been consistent since I've owned it is the transmission, rear end, and rear springs. There have been 3 different engines, along with three different clutches. The driveshaft was replaced after the installation of the second engine. Diggerdon thinks it might be the springs wrapping. Anyway it's getting to be annoying. The transmission, rear end, and springs have not been rebuilt since I've had it. Might any of these three be the culprit? Any of you truck guys experienced this?


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie - I also think spring wrap is doing this - has one of the transmissions been a "granny low" set-up? Usually they are awful about spring wrap in forward as well as reverse.

Trucks also often have those "dual rate" leaf springs where they put a soft, unladen arch in there that goes away when you load the bed. Applying a load of multiplied torque to the drive shaft (in either direction) tends to rotate the housing and lift the right rear in forward and left rear in reverse. When you add this rotation to the tendency of the pinion to climb the ring gear - the soft arch of the spring gets wound up prettty quick.   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

The transmission has been the same the whole time. It's a top loaded 3 speed so I think it's a T86. Good traction bars might be a cure. It does hop when I do a burn out so I need to do something in order to prevent breaking things.


Lawrenceville, GA

A cheap way to find out is to make clamps out of 2 pieces of flat stock with a bolt at either end. Place them near the ends of the longer leaves at the front of the housing. Usually two on a side will do it. This was a fairly common practice on a lot of 60's cars. You clamp them down hard for the track and effectively bind the two leaves togather. If this works but dosen't cure it then go with tracion bars. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Charlie, the most over looked item in a leaf spring suspension is the spring and hanger bushs, my be yours are still the originals. "Seat of the pants" difference between old and new is very noticeable. Made a big difference to any effie I have owned. For some reason people tend to not think about them. The new poly style give you a choice of hard, soft or in between. A mate of mine with a 78 F100 spent a fortune on the front end trying to stop it "walking around", in desperation he did the rear bushs and the  problem was solved. Check and/or replace the spring centre bolts as well.

Pete, one of the Aussie mob. Beechworth, Victoria60 F100 Panel Van, Y-block. 65 Galaxie Country Sedan 390

The bushings probably are worn.  I have not replaced them.

The fronts were real bad.  The bushings were so loose that the truck would slide on them when cornering.  I didn't figure out what was making the poping noise until I put a pair on monoleafs on to lower it.

I'll try Chuck's suggestion first.  Don has told me about that one too.

Lawrenceville, GA

I haven't done anything about it yet. Got busy with the exhaust.

Here are some pictures of the springs.







It looks like this clamp may have slid forward some. So I guess I'll see if I can knock it back and make some clamps to hold the front leaves and see what happens. Are the ones that are separated from the rest the helper springs?

Do y'all think mono leaf springs are any good for performance? I need to lower the rear so that it matches the front. I've already installed mono leafs up front. They seem to do pretty well. I'll probably need traction bars with them but that shouldn't be a big deal. I don't really plan on carrying much.


Lawrenceville, GA

Looks like just a standard truck spring. The spring wrap does appear to have slid a bit but they do very little anyway. The clamps keep the springs from sliding and make them much stiffer. You may not want to run them tight on the stree. Traction bars are always a decent idea. I never have been able to convince myself to use the mono leaf springs. If you break one your in deep )(&^$%$% Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

How much did you lower the front? The most economical way to lower the rear on a slick is to relocate the housing to the top of the springs, this will get you at least 3 to 4 ins. It will require a frame notch, but pretty easy. Just a piece of 4'' tube split in half and welded in. Boxing a section of the inside frame is a good idea. You will also need to install shorter shocks.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Hey Charlie;  You might look at the pinion angle. Looks like it is pointing up amd believ it should be down a taste.  Bell tech makes shims for this problem. Just a thought. GOD bLESS   eDDIE

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630