Is it not important to know if this engine has been rebuilt and is running a new style filter.  If it has always had non detergent won't the addition of detergent fowl up some stuff?

I use Motorcraft oil, 20W50 SJ with two botles of Militec 1. I'm having great results with this.

The SJ oils still have the ZDDP necessary to older engines with flat tappets like ours. Since Ford discontinued the SJ API rating around here last year, I bought some four cases of 24 quarts each from my delaler last January. After using them all, I plan to add some ZDDP aditive to a SL 20W50 oil.The Brazilian Galaxie's service manual says that 20W50 oil is the choice for hotter climates, like we have in Brazil. In the USA, (unless you are in Florida or Arizona, for example), I think a 20W40 would be a fine choice.

Our Motorcraft oil, is actually made by Texaco, and is their Havoline 20W50 SJ oil, inside a FoMoCo bottle.

The newer cars, suche as my Focus, uses 10W30 Motorcraft oil (made by Castrol, 100% sintectic), but this oil is not suitable for the older engines, because of the SL API classification (not to mention the 5W30 part).

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

SM oils with 40 or higher in their viscosity classification (ie: 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50) still has the same zinc/phosphorus contents as the older SJ oils.  It’s just the oils being used by the new car manufacturers now that pose a problem with the older flat tappet camshafts.

Assuming the engine is sludged up, switching over to detergent oil from non-detergent just requires more frequent oil changes 

 

I’ll add that not many engines are still on non-detergent oil but I do have one myself that I make it a point in keeping non-detergent oil in (Flathead V8 with original non-full flow oil filter).  Looking under a valve cover would probably give an indication of exactly how much ‘crud’ is standing but just keeping track of how quickly the oil gets dark and changing it accordingly will get the engine eventually cleaned up.  This is of course assuming the engine is being run long enough to get the engine hot enough for the oil to actually work on cleaning up the engine.  If the engine is just being used for short hops, then sludge will likely continue to build up rather than be cleaned out with more frequent oil changes.  Just my opinion.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, do you know if a 5W30 SL still has the old amount of ZDDP?

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

The SL oil to which you refer has less ZDDP than the SJ oil of the same weight.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

For a FORDO, and you KNOW it has the older, original type brass clutches, use type F



If it has the more modern clutch material, use any of the Dextron/Mercon fluids.





Don't use Non-detergent oil in ANYTHING! (except maybe to lube the squeaky door!!)





Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I use Valvoline 20/50 racing oil. Z-1 I think it is. Of course it was the Valvoline rep. but at the Gator Nationals last year I told him about my '56 & the concern about phosphate etc. & he recommended the Z-1. I also heard oil sold at Tractor supply was high in Phosphate & zinc & it's cheaper than Valvoline.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

The ZDDP in Rotella is intended for diesel engines, not for gas engines.



Because the viscosity extenders in mineral oil breaks down and becomes a contaminant, I use synthetic oil which has the multi-viscosity rating without using viscosity extenders.



I tried using STP oil treatment in my 223 because it has lots of the right kind of ZDDP, but ran into a problem where the thick STP would not pump up when I was first trying to fire up the engine. GM EOS might be a better source of concentrated ZDDP. Do not use more than recommended because the zinc, which is a transport element and is immediately shed when the DDP bonds to the iron, that zinc also becomes a contaminant.



I'd use Mobil 1 20w-50. And a good filter like Motorcraft, NAPA/Wix, Purolator PurOne, Mobil 1, or similar. I wouldn't use a Fram on my lawnmower.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

This is a subject that draws a hundred opinions. So here's my 2 cents worth. First it's very unlikely that "funs" engine was run on non detergent oil. Next, I'd be reluctant to change the type of oil in an old engine to synthetic. If for no other reason than the the stuff is much more expensive usually. Racing oil is for racing, not street use, so don't use it for a regular street engine. Follow Ted's guide lines re oil and you won't go wrong. Do not use 10-30 or thinner "starburst" marked oil in a flat tappet engine. Those oils are designed for modern roller valve train engines. And another thing, there is probably more myth out there about engine oil than just about any subject you can think of...

Paul

I think there might be some disagreement with that.





ZDDP is more for flat tappet (and other sliding-surface) lubrication. Diesel type oil is formulated more for keeping soot in suspension and since diesel engines are moving away from flat tappets and other mechanisms that might require ZDDP, the oil companies are lowering the amount of it in diesel oils also. (many diesels now have roller-followers....like my 94 6.5L GM diesel for example)



The only engines that might need ZDDP nowadays are y-blocks, some motorcycle engines, and other engines that do not have roller-followers.....

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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox