There's a really excellent article on oils and the elimination (reduction) of ZDDP by Gibbs. I got a copy from Gordon Payne (Payne and Parham). If Gibbs is selling the oil, it will work. 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Thank's from me too, guy's that was some darn good info!

we used to run Ross lumber carriers in 59 and later and we ran SAE 30 wht in the summer then went to sae 20 in winter  and this was Valvoline oil these engines worked really hard  the engine where 292,s with a 2 barrel and stood up well  my instructer in Mechanics said us a 15-40 series 3 oil thats made for diesels it,s the best oil for engines because it has to be the best to protect all loads in a deisel engine and it works great in gas engines  just my thought  Shakey Pete

I have been using Joe Gibbs conventional Hot Rod oil 10-30 in my 56 272. For about a year and it seems to work great. It has Zinc in it for flat tappets and anti corrosive additives for vehicles that are in storage for extended periods of time. It is pricy but  you get what you pay for and I figure its good. I also run the Gibbs oil in my 60 Fairlane with a FE 390 that I drag race, but I use the full synthetic 10-30W Hot Rod oil. I used to run Brad Penn which is great also but when I started using the Gibbs oil the oil pressure increased by 5LBS at idle when the engine is hot. You might want to use 20-50W in Florida during those hot summers.

                                                                    Andy of Mayberry

For anyone that is interested, the following article is pretty good. It puts oil in a fairly good perspective....and it's not just someone's opinion or a marketers sales pitch.....

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/


After you read it, you'll see why there's few that recommend using a non-synthetic 10W-40 oil for anything.....(except maybe lubing the squeaky door!)



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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

The way I understand it is race oils simply don't last as long. They offer a lot more protection for a shorter amount of time. The way I interpret VR1 is that it is a performance street oil with racing in the name to attract the guys who like to say "I'm using racing ____ in my car." My friends who do race happen to use Valvoline racing oil and it's not VR1.

I have used VR1 exclusively, for the extra flat tappet protection it offers, with the new build of the engine, using normal change intervals, and for the 10000 miles I've put on it so far, there are no signs of impending doom.


Lawrenceville, GA

Just because it's "race oil" why would it be harmful to an engine? I doubt the oil knows whether it's a race engine or not.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

 Hi y guys-

  Here comes another two cents worth.

  About two weeks ago I walked into the local Walmart and a guy had a table set up promoting Valvoline motor oil. Sooooo............I asked him about ZDDP and flat tappet engines.  He was honest enough to admit he was relatively new and didn't know from squat what I was talking about. He did however make a couple of phone calls and talked to a 20 year engineer who stated that Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil had the ZDDP additives but that was the only one he mentioned.

  Now, I don't race and consider a street driven car a totally different animal from one that's raced. I, therefore won't be using VR-1 Racing Oil in my y block, or FE's, or 385.  Like many others I used Rotella 15-40 as a stopgap measure but I don't think you can be sure exactly what amount of additives you're getting.

  So I went to a ZDDP additive specificlly for flat tappet engines. Not a break in additive, but engineered to run with 5 quarts of oil and provide the protection needed from oil change to oil change. You can get it from Summit, Jegs, O'Reilly's etc. It runs about $8 a bottle and I figure that's cheap enough against the pain and cost of major repair. The aftermarket cam companies recognize the need and are getting into the market,ie Comp Cams, Isky.

  And belatedly, I want to say congrats to Ted and his crew on the stunning perfomance at the EMC and of course to John M. for his outstanding work on the development and manufacture of new components!!!!

  I want all to know that since the EMC I have been a absolute pain in the butt to all my scrubby friends spreading the y block word!!!!!!!!!!

     Best to All,

    Missouri Mike

   

 

I'd rather be lucky than good.................

    but good ain't bad!!

It's very hard to find non-biased info on oils because the writers are usually trying to sell oil or oil additives.....



I did find the following articles that maybe puts it in a better perspective......you'll have to read and make your own decisions. I know I am going to stop using 5W-20 in my new Honda! AND I will be running either 5W-40 (synthetic) or 15W-40 in my 292!!



The first article does have some marketing BS that you sort of have to ignore but the second one is pretty much "marketing-free"!





Cheers,





Rick



http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm



http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

04 was the year all auto motors were mandated to go roller lifters, many motors before were flat tappet such as all the FE's, Y's, 385's, M's and Clevelands, MEL's & Windsors. This is just to name some of the Fords that still need it, let alone all the other brands I would say it is still a high number of engines that need it.

I think starting in 07 or later all the truck engines were required to go roller lifters.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?