I just did the timing chain on my y-block a few months ago, and it was waaaay over-due. There was heaps of slack in the chain so both sprockets came off pretty easy, but getting them back on with the new, tight chain was a task for sure. There is a small key way in the crankshaft sprocket, the keys look like little half-moons, and there are two that fit into the side of the crankshaft... one for the crankshaft dampner you already removed, and the other is for the crankshaft sprocket. There should also be another key for the camshaft sprocket.



Once you cut the chain and the camshaft sprocket slides off, hopefully the crankshaft sprocket will follow, but if not...



I would suggest using a puller if you can fit one on there, but again, soak the whole kit in PB Blaster again and again, and the more wire brushing you do around the crankshaft sprocket, the easier it is going to move. Remember, because of the key, you wont be able to rotate or twist the sprocket on the shaft to help break it free... its gonna need to be a straight-off motion



Hope my two-cents worth helps...

Glen, PC and Paul, thanks for the suggestions.  I'm beginning the process with PB Blaster and then the vinegar. I'll keep you posted as to my progress.

Steve

Pour some white vinegar down the holes. It is a mild acid which will dissolve rust. Flush when you got everything apart. Also pour some at the joint where the lower timing gear meets the crank. It there is rust on the exposed part of the crank, get some emery cloth and get the rust off.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

To remove pistons from a rusted y-block, I first sanded the red rust off of the cylinder walls, then I used a straight-edged razor to remove the rust scale. I was able to get all the scale off of the cylinder walls. I cleaned off as much of the corrosion from the piston that I could, then I soaked it in PB blaster. I first pushed the piston down a little using a sledge and a block of wood to get the remaining scale and rust off of the cylinder wall, then I used the wood from underneath to push the piston out the top. I would use some care, because I've heard you can split the cylinder wall if you get too frisky. Try not to gouge or scratch the cylinder wall. I got two stuck pistons out without damaging the 292 at all.



Next time I might try dissolving the piston with hydrochloric acid, or use electrolysis to remove the corrosion. I've used electrolysis to de-scale things like intakes and iron water pumps. It's not a panacea, but it works to a degree.



Edit: PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH BOLTS CAM OFF OF THE REAR MAIN CAP. The rear main cap is slightly shorter than the others and the bolts that hold it down are slightly shorter. If you try to torque the wrong bolts into the rear main cap, you will ruin your block.



Edit: Try to tap the gear farther onto the crank to break it loose. Then heat the lower timing gear with a small torch, and while it's warm, drip paraffin onto the joint where the gear fits onto the crank. Heat, and repeat. Then try to pull it off. Got a gear puller? Also, if the gear cocks slightly, it will jam onto the crank snout.



You can email me for more advice on dis-assembly and reassembly.



Paul

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Glen,

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm wondering though........when i get the timing chain off, shouldn't that crank gear pull off with a puller.  I dont see a key way in it. With the block upside down and open everything looks good in the parts of the cylinders that i can see. I'm hoping it's a salvagable block.

thanks again

Steve

There are many different answers to your questions, but I'll give you mine. 1: cut the timing chain, it's no good anyway. 2: I think the seal retainers are 3/8's 12 point. 3: Turn the block upside down and remove all the main caps and as many rod caps as you can reach, cut the remaining ones with a sawzall or torch them into. With a "BFH" and a solid rod start driving the pistons out, most likely they are junk anyway. This is of course after soaking the thing good with PB blaster for a day or two. Most likely the crank will be the only thing worth saving anyway.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Needing some advice here. I have a 312 block that was running when removed from the 1957 ford but then sat out for a couple years without the heads on it. The crank assembly will not turnover.

So question #1 is: Any suggestions for getting it to spin?

Question #2: The rear main seal assembly seems to have odd shaped bolt heads holding it in place. Looks to be about 7/16 size but my 7/16 socket wont fit down into the space to get onto the bolt head. How do i get them out?

Question#3: In trying to remove the timing chain and gears, the cam gear easily slides but the crank gear wont budge. Thus i cant get the crank gear off which prevents the chain and cam gear from coming off. Any ideas for this stuck crank gear?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Steve