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ceramic vs semi metalic brake pads

Posted By 55vickey 15 Years Ago
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kevinwalshe
Posted 15 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (11/15/2010)
Kevin-Simple answer ,buy new ones.You spent the money correctly by turning the drums.They are now nice and round.Dump the shoes and replace.Also suggest you replace ALL the springs in the brakes as much as you can find replacements for.World of difference in the way the brakes will work and lets be honest-unless this is your primary wheels you are very unlikely to redo the brakes againin the near future.Hows the body and paint doing?Havent seen any recent pics posted.




It's going good, my dads friend is still working on it. Coming along nicely. I may go over there and take some pictures to show it off. It will be nice to not have more than a skim of bondo on it. I may just carry around a magnet with me in case anyone doubts it! I tried to comment last week but the website was giving me grief. More pics coming.

Kevin



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Kevin Walshe

Costa Mesa, California
Hollow Head
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Ferodo has some linings for drum brakes that must be clued to existing shoes and be cut to proper size. Those bite more harder that stock ones and bear more heat. In europe those are commonly used with historic rally and racing cars. Other brands may as well have similar products.

http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_brake_pads.shtml

http://porterfield-brakes.com/categories/Vintage+Brake+Shoes/Woven+Kevlar+Shoes.html

google some more....

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e3fd9a79-e7c3-47ff-a648-8cd5.jpg Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

PF Arcand
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Further to my last post. So, does anyone have info on drum brake linings that are softer, or offer more bite for street use?

Paul
PF Arcand
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Marvh: Thanks, that was also suggested to me some time ago by Hurricane John. As far as I can tell without pulling the Master apart it's a std 1" bore. It has no markings. The 57 manual only lists a 1" bore, so ?? It just strikes me that softer linings might help. In the distant past I've seen ads for brakes linings with "lifetime" guarantees. At a guess I suspect those lining materials must be quite hard, but it's only a theory...

Paul
marvh
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PF Arcand (11/15/2010)
I've experienced a similar problem as Kevin. My 57s drum brakes are like stone. .




Paul:

Check the bore size of your master cylinder. It should be stamped on the outside of the casting (most do). In 57 Ford used two different master cylinders, one for std brakes and one for power brakes. If you have the power brake master cylinder and using in a std brake application the brakes will be heavy as the power brake MC are larger bore and will take more effort to apply the brakes.

marv
rgrove
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pegleg (11/15/2010)
Actually, you have that backwards.  Ceramics dont hold up to the heat of track use (counterinuitive, I know). 

         Interesting. I've used the semi-metalics on street machines for years, with good results.

Semi metallics are all around better pads (better initial bite, better pedal feel, and better performance under heat/track use) IF you can put up with the dusting and occasional noise/squealing (although titanium shims on the back of the pads can help noise as well as reduce heat transfer to the caliper)

Kevin, you are best off getting new shoes; as others have said, youve come this far, and if youve had the drums turned, the new shoes will just work better, not to mention last longer.  But its up to you; after all, its only your safety!  Tongue

And when will you have that sweet merc back on the road??

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

PF Arcand
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I've experienced a similar problem as Kevin. My 57s drum brakes are like stone. I tried deglazing them, but it didn't make a lot of difference. Also bled the front wheels to ensure the wheel cylinders were acting o.k. My thought is that the lining material is probably a hard, high mileage compound. Are softer lining materials available? What would a person look for in that regard? A front Disc brake conversion would be expensive, particularly on a 57, as it would likely also involve replacing all the tires and wheels, due to caliper/ wheel interference. So as this isn't anything like a daily driver, & I run stock full wheel covers, I don't want to go that route...

Paul
oldcarmark
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Kevin-Simple answer ,buy new ones.You spent the money correctly by turning the drums.They are now nice and round.Dump the shoes and replace.Also suggest you replace ALL the springs in the brakes as much as you can find replacements for.World of difference in the way the brakes will work and lets be honest-unless this is your primary wheels you are very unlikely to redo the brakes again in the near future.Hows the body and paint doing?Havent seen any recent pics posted.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
pegleg
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Actually, you have that backwards.  Ceramics dont hold up to the heat of track use (counterinuitive, I know). 

         Interesting. I've used the semi-metalics on street machines for years, with good results.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


kevinwalshe
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Another question, How old is too old for drum brake shoes? I had my rotors turned but used the old shoes (unknown age-most likely a few decades) and simply filed the "glaze" off them. I feel that they aren't biting as they should. Should I just replace them?

Thanks,

Kev



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Kevin Walshe

Costa Mesa, California


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