Can anyone tell me why the intake manifold on my '55 239 looks like it is overheating in the middle ports on both sides? when I found the truck 4 years ago the original manifold had a hole about the size of a dime on the middle port of one side. After rebuilding the engine and installing a new (used, but new to me) intake, this one is discoloring really bad and has cooked the paint off both sides but only on the middle sections.

55 F100  Summerville, SC

That area typically burns paint, however if the exhaust heat riser valve, located between the manifold and crossover pipe, is stuck closed, the manifold will heat excessively.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks, I was hoping it would be something simple (or normal). I plan to swap the cross-over pipe soon with a set of ram's horns so I can let the engine breathe easier. I will wait and repaint the intake then.

55 F100  Summerville, SC

Unless you drive your truck in extreme cold weather you can block the runner while the manifold is off. It's a simple matter of placing a piece of tin over the hole in the gaskets. That will block the heat from the intake center runner and keep the paint from burning. Its purpose is to provide heat at the base of the carb for cold weather operation. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The gaskets which restrict the passage should solve the problem. I wouldn't block it completely. Even here in Atlanta it can get cold enough to cause winter driveability issues.


Lawrenceville, GA

She is VERY cold natured. I live in SC and if it is below 50 I have to her her warm up for a good 10 minutes before she wants to go anywhere. I see the spaces in the gaskets but did not know what they were for. This is the first Y that I've owned and have had it on the road for about three years now with no problems.

55 F100  Summerville, SC

A good aftermarket ignition goes a long way in the cold but it's not so easy on a '55. Mine's ready to go in no more than 5 minutes even in the 20s. I don't even use the choke. That is one of the most significant changes I noticed with the ignition upgrade. I try to keep it under 3000rpm until it's fully warmed up.

If you play with the tune, you may get it to be less cold natured.


Lawrenceville, GA

I need to get me a tach so I can see what rpms I'm turning. On the highway she sounds like she is screaming. It's mostly original with the 239 having been bored .030 on the rebuild. The glove box states that the rearend is 3.92 but I haven't checked it out to make sure. I am the third owner and it supposedly had never been out of SC before I got it.

55 F100  Summerville, SC

A 3.92 will run the rev's up pretty good on the highway. Its truck gearing.

Paul

any info on what gears would be good for the highway and where they can be purchased would be greatly appreciated.

55 F100  Summerville, SC