You indicated that you didn't have any power on hills..



Charlie started out by saying check the basics. I agree completely. Do a compression check on each engine cylinder. Do a full check of engine vacuum readings, not just at idle. This is old school stuff, but can quickly show root problems like rings that aren't sealing, leaking valves, a vacuum leak, malfunctioning valve springs, sticking valves, or a bad valve.



You indicated that you have a distributor with centrifugal and vacuum advance. Find someone with a distributor machine to check the centrifugal and vacuum advance operation. NOTE: this is becoming a lost art. The centrifugal advance curve can easily be adjusted; some vacuum advance diaphragms can be adjusted also. IF you had the distributor apart, accidentally switched the spring to weight combination or changed the posts the springs were attached to, it could have significantly changed the ignition advance curve. Ignition advance curve operation is critical to sharp performance in stop and go street/ road vehicles.



Engine ignition timing: After checking the ignition point dwell angle, be sure to set the engine ignition timing at the correct idle speed and with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum hose plugged.



Have you had the carburetor apart? IF the float level is incorrect it will affect the operation of the high speed circuit. Is the accelerator pump functioning properly? -Engine off, with the choke held open, look down the air horn, move the throttle lever; is gas being squirted from the get-go? Is there an accelerator pump linkage adjustment on your carburetor? Is the rod in the correct hole(s)?



Ol'ford nut makes a good point regarding rear end gears. They can make a real difference in how the truck acts going up a hill.



If all of the above 'sorting-out' has been done and you're still not happy with the performance, I agree with those who suggest using the '56, '57 1.54 rockerarms if you don't already have them, and a full dual exhaust system (not headers). Using the 'G' heads will raise the compression ratio and make a significant difference in the engine's performance. Don't worry about porting the heads for your intended use.



I would not 'invest' in aftermarket exhaust headers, an aftermarket intake manifold, or an aftermarket camshaft for the 272 displacement. Notice that I also have not suggested putting a stock large-carburetor-base ('57 type) 4 barrel intake on the engine. -If you do, use a 4 barrel of less than 500 cfm. You'll like the throttle response for street and highway use. OPINION: there's nothing wrong with a good 4 bolt 2 barrel on this engine.



Some will say that there's no substitute for cubic inches, but your 272 will put a smile on your face if the ignition, carb, and rear end gears are 'right'. The 'G' heads, dual exhaust, and 1:54 rockerarms will suffice to juice it up and won't cost you a lot to do.



Before I spent the money on building another engine (292), I'd consider putting a 4 speed or T-5z behind the 272. I think you'd find it to be a totally different ride.



Regards,

NoShotcuts




NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Thanks for the replies.  I have a 60 ford 3.4 ton 4x4 with 4.56 dana 60 and  a T-98 4 speed. I had planned to pull a small trailer in the summer for camping.

When the 272 was finished 2 years ago, all of the things you all mentioned were checked, vacumn, rebuilt autolite manual choke carb, checked advance, spark, timing, dwell.....  I know the mechanic checked the compression but I don't remember what it was. I am going to check it before I tear the heads off.  I also think the compression height of the replacement pistons were shorter but don't know how much.  I have resigned to the fact that I put on the wrong heads for this engine.  These are good points you all mentioned and I might recheck them before I take the heads off.

Question: Why put on dual exhaust system and not use aftermarket headers?  I had thought maybe putting on the Sanderson truck headers or for a stock look the Ram horns. Wouldn't the headers flow better than stock exhaust decreasing resistance?

I would do headers or rams horns for a more symmetric look. I don't think anyone knows for sure whether they are better or not at this time. We will have a better idea soon.


Lawrenceville, GA

OK you wrote "Question: Why put on dual exhaust system and not use aftermarket headers?  I had thought maybe putting on the Sanderson truck headers or for a stock look the Ram horns. Wouldn't the headers flow better than stock exhaust decreasing resistance?"

Headers are for high RPM high performance RACE engines not for 3/4 4X4 trucks that will tow a small trailer. You will have to be more realistic as to what you are trying to do here. A Ford 272 will never set any land speed records or win any drag strip races. IT WILL produce GOOD low and medium RPM torque which is what YOU NEED. Forget G heads, high lift rockers, race cams, Sanderson headers, ETC they will cost a lot and will do nothing that you want to do. Raise your engine compression ( try to find ECZ A, or B or C heads with SMALL VALVES) and DUAL EXHAUST. You NEED low RPM TORQUE not screaming RPM HP.

As I said, you need to get real. A good running 272 will be an OK motor but will NEVER set the world on fire.

 And if you are not able to do the work yourself then consider a rebuilt or used 292 as a more cost effective way to go.

Pete, the reason for G heads is not so much for the flow as it is for the compression. Just by swapping those, a gain of about .7 will be acquired, no milling required. That will help it across the rpm range and should more than counter the effects of the larger valve at lower RPM. Remember, 272 trucks in '57 came with G heads. Headers are also a good choice for enhancing low end torque, when chosen properly. So far, from the testing we've seen, the Sanderson truck shorties look like an excellent choice for the street.

In one recently posted test, the big EMC headers did better than rams horns. It is a warmer 272 but nothing unrealistic for street use. If idaho wanted to copy that engine, he can easily.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic51408-3-1.aspx?Highlight=exhaust+testing


Lawrenceville, GA

I don't know where in Idaho we are talking about - but when I lived in Casper, Wyoming the back of my lot was at 6008 ft. Normally asperated engines are derated (just like air compressors) about 3% per thousand feet - so in the driveway, my toys were already down 18% - when they were in perfect tune......... To hook on a trailer and go camping in the mountains, my F-150 4x4 spent much time on poor roads at high elevation in low range of the transfer case. And it had a 351 - about 80 cubic inches more displacement.

Its gonna be hard to overcome the altitude factor without increasing the displacement.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

High altitude? I have the cure. You need a blower.


Lawrenceville, GA

I am in Lewiston/Clarkston on the WA/ID border and elevation is only 700 ft but anyway out is up.  I am kind of leaning towards the G-head replacement first.  I didn't really want to take the engine out of the truck so I was hesitant in changing the stock cam.  What do you all think?

Are you considering a camshaft change?

I think your original path is the best way to persue.

Oldmics

I'm with Old Ford Nut. You're getting a lot of recommendations based on minimum information. What model is the truck? 1/2 ton? What gearing? How much power on hills isn't enough? Do you use the truck for heavy hauling? You need to be more specific...

Paul