ok here goes, I'm getting started gathering parts for my .040 over 292 with cleaned up G heads and a Fenton three pot manifold with 94s.right about 9 to 9.25 compression It's going back in my 54 Crestline Victoria with an early cruise o matic (non vacuum modulator) and 3.31s. just wondering what you guys thought about cam selection. Just wondering your thoughts about how hot a cam I can get away with,with that trans and rear gears. Thanks guys

The stock converter is the limiting factor for your combination in regards to camshaft selection. With that in mind, 224° duration at 0.050” on the intake side of the camshaft would be about as big as I’d recommend and still maintain some semblance of an idle with the tranny engaged and using a stock stall converter.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I had between 224 and 228 in mind actually,so I'll stick with the lower end of that thought. I had figured that the converter is goimg to be my big limiting factor but I really don't want to put a C-4 in it. Limiting myself with the trans will just keep Me from building the rat nasty engine I don't need. I want it to run like hell but the car is supposed to just be a cruiser anyway..lol. Is there anyone out there who can modify that stock converter at all,or does anyone know what to do to it? I'm gonna look through my old mags.

comp cams says you can up the cam 10 degrees at .050 when comparing a solid lifter to a hydraulic cam. Let's say a hydraulic with 224 @ .050 and a running duration of 270 works fine with a stock stall. Then when going to a solid lifter and factoring in the lash to equal a hydraulic you take half the lash and up the @ .050 with that number ( .019 divided X 2  so approx 9 to 10 points to 224 will give you .233 to .234 at .050 and you should be good with a stock converter, so anything in the .228 .232 and keeping the running duration fairly short with the lobe sep around 110  to 112 you should be in a pretty good place with the cam.

-Gary Burnette-

thanks for your input guys,just really trying to make sure I can get a nose out on my roommates 389 powered 57 pontiac.I know I'm gonna have to spin that y-block quite a bit tighter than his poncho.He says he's gonna have to put 500lbs of sand in the trunks so I can keep up...

Johnny: Nice of your friend to be so accommodating, especially since his engine is over 90 cu. inches bigger! Anyway, John Mummert advertises a nominal 265 degree Y cam with 435 lift, that he recommends with a Fordomatic..

Paul

say john, i think your room mate might be useing the weight for traction so he doesn't spin off the line, very tricky.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.

You will have to decide what you want your car to do. After you race the guy with the 57 Pontiac then what? If the car will be a dedicated track car then go as wild on the cam as you want. If you will be driving the car on the street and using it to cruise then that is a far different animal.

The cruiseo in your car is the limiting factor along with the 54 rear end ( no posi). The torque converter has a stall of around 1500/1800 rpm so pick a cam that will provide GOOD torque at 400/500 rpm higher than the stall speed. No easy way around it so go for torque at a usable engine rpm rather than all out HP at some high rpm your car will never see or be able to use. Forget the car magazines they just want the ad money from the cam makers. Take it for what its worth. Pete

Thanks guys,I drive the car all the time and want to continue to love driving it so I will deffinately keep that in mind.Anyway I look at it,it is going to run much much better with the new engine than the old tired 272 that it had in it.I'm not especially worried about it being the fastest in town or I'd dump a 4 speed in it and rear gears..lol I just really appreciate the input you guys give,since this is my first y-block build