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56mercgal
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
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The new mounts I have are for a V8 so they should be good. Doan is the brand
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marvh
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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Your rad looks like a 4 core desert cooler which should be tight yet still have enough fan clearance to install the belts after the rad installation.
What I was referring to is that the mounts can be installed in a reversed position which brings the motor forward. If I recall it will bring it forward about 1.5 inches. This could be where you are losing the rad to fan clearance.
If you look under the car from the front of the car at the motor mount check if you can seen the top bolts which mount to the engine block from the front of the car or cannot see them as they are hid by the mount the mount is installed correctly unless Merc's are backwards to a Ford. It has been a long time since I pulled a Merc engine.
marv
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speedpro56
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Mercs are like a ford. The open C motor mount should be toward the firewall with the closed part to the front.
-Gary Burnette-
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56mercgal
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
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I just talked to the guy who ordered this radiator for me and he said it should be a three core. Sooo, I am going to see about modifying the mounting bracket and (hopefully!) move the radiator an inch and hope that works! What I would do for just an inch! 
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BIGREDTODD
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 10 Years Ago
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What you need to do is have the radiator shop revise the mounting flange on the radiator to achieve proper spacing. When I had the Griffin made for my '60 F-100, it took them 3 times to get the mount right. They were supplying me an aluminum radiator with the stock inlet/outlet locations, going into a stock core support. I finally just had to take a sharpie and draw the plane (at the stock location) where I needed the radiator flange. Don't get me wrong, they were great to work with and I'll buy from them again. Your local shop should be equally easy to deal with. Changing the flange is not a huge deal.
Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento
1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial
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YellowWing
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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You could try moving the radiator forward as suggested or you could install a electric fan behind the radiator. It will just fit when you get creative. Mike
1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)
Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ
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paul2748
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Last Active: 7 hours ago
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56mercgal (1/5/2011) (I am afraid of smashing the fins!) When installing a radiator with the engine in the car, I always tape a cardboard over the fin area to prevent mashed fins.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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56mercgal
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
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Hi Mike! WOW! I love how clean your Y-block is!  (I'm jealous now,lol! ) did you remove the old fan and just install an electric one onto the radiator? And did you get the kind that automatically go on at a set temp? What brand did you install? I was looking at the Zirgos. Is yours a 16 inch?  Thanks for replying back, Carrie
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YellowWing
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Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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Carrie, it is a 16" fan, see link below. I installed it using 1"X1/8" aluminum angle. I drilled holes though the angle as it is against the back of the radiator and I did not want to block airflow. You can just see the top angle below the header tank in the photo. The angle pieces are long enough to bolt to the small flanges on the edge of the radiator, they bolt to the fan using the stock fan mounting holes. Mounted this way the outer shroud that is built into the fan sits about 1/4" from the radiator. The bottom edge of the fan motor which is the thickest part sits just above the water pump pulley. I use a truck pump on my engine which when I measured against my old pump was 1/4" longer. I had to cut off the extra water pump shaft that extended through the pulley (do to no longer using a spacer) and use button head allen screws to give me extra clearance. The pulley misses the bottom edge of the fan motor by about 3/8" which is fine as the engine moves side to side and not forward. I do have a full electronic control for the fan, regulates fan speed, auto shut off during cranking, 30 second run on after shut down as well as temp control, very slick. It is hidden inside the hollowed out voltage regulator as I use an alternator and do not need the regulator. Mike http://www.coolcraft.com/fans/spal-16-straight-blade-low-profile-fan.html
1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)
Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ
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56mercgal
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
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Hi Mike, could you please take a couple of pics of the fan mounts on your radiator??? It almost looks like the bolts go right thru the core (Which I DON'T think is what was done! ) And forgive me here, but you mentioned the angle mount is bolted onto the fan mount on the pulley?? I guess I just need a couple of good pics of how the fan is mounted. I use an alternator,too. I have the original water pump and pulley. Obviously, you took off the old four bladed fan, which would still leave that fan's pulley to turn. That's where I am a bit confused!
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