One of the tricks that John used on his 57 to get those big slicks to fit was use 56 wheel wells. The ones on my 57 custom are shot so if I can find 55/56 ones, I'll use them. I have to replace the lower quarters anyway. This is the next project after the falcon.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

How about a Y-Block powered trike! That would be really unique. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

got a few views on this thread here and there, so if anyone's interested, here are a couple more photos of some of the work done today on the 55 Ford body dolly...check it out. I was surprised at a couple of things. I know most of the body is off the car, and what is left is on the rear axle, but this thing was EZ to move around, even in the snow. I could pull and PUSH it anywhere I wanted it go. I imagine once I get a whole body on there, that probably won't be the case, but then again, I won't have the snow to contend with either.

    

    

    

I especially like how the next picture looks...

"where's my front end for crying out loud?"

  

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Update on progress. I just about have the donor car down to the frame, ready to make a dolly out of it. Today, I cut the floor pans out (very good), threw away the rockers (very bad), and completely removed the firewall/toe board/windshield frame/door post section. Might use that for a faux body part when I display the convertible frame and Y block this summer at a car show...would be neat to have the dash installed and the firewall looking good, could even put in a windshield, have the correct new rubber and good stainless. Dunno. Seems like I've got enough work to do!

    

Look everybody, a 4 door convertible!

    

The floor pans are in excellent shape - anybody need a good set?

    

Glen, I don't know about the outer wheel wells, they look pretty thin. I will let you know when I get in there. Of course the inside looks good. The quarters are also shot on this car and really not worth fixing, although some of the upper metal is worth saving. What you working on?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Nice wagon... Danial, your Dad would be stylin' in the car.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

It's for SALE

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Parklane-Wagon-Victoria-street-cruiser-street-rod-rod-station-wagon-wagon-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb487dfbaQQitemZ260726841274QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

I really like the gas tank filler change

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

Gary, I have never seen that car before. Don't know how I missed the photos, but I guess I don't get Rod and Custom. At any rate, that has to be one of the most tastefully done customs I've seen on a 55/56 Ford body - especially a wagon. That guy is an artist, not just a sheet metal man!

Wonder if it's for sale, maybe my dad would like to buy that one instead! yeah, right!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Daniel

This 56 has some great body work/modifications. take your time and don't be afraid to do it over if you are not happy with it the first time.  

 http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/Parklane%20Project/?albumview=slideshow

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

Daniel: Just a note on the MIG welder. for body sheet metal, .023 wire is easier to deal with than the bigger guages.

Paul

Hi Dan,

When you get ready to lift the body off the frame there are a couple tricks that the T bird guys do that you should also adapt.  Asuming that you are satisfied with the way the doors close when the car is sitting on its wheels, you then will remove the doors, hinges and striker plates.  Then you build A frames that lay on their sides and bolt into both hinge mounts and the striker plate mount.  The A frames should be welded together using the car itself as the final jig so that the body can not flex.  But the A frames should not apply any preload.  Convertibles are even more flexible than T birds (I once jacked up my '54 convert with the doors open and I couldn't close them until I got it back off the jack) so you need to be sure the body is as rigid as you can make it before you start to unbolt and lift it.  

Also when you undo the body to frame bolts be sure to keep and record the exact shim count for each bolt. These shims are probably rusty and the bolts may shear off.  They are the same as T bird so they are available.  Lift the body at 4 points, 2 near the firewall and 2 over the rear wheels using 2 hoists and spreader bars. The body isn't that heavy but you want to be lifting straight up where you are attaching to the body.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.