thanks for the encouraging words... especially the ones about how this may just be one of the more economical projects to plan and pull off...

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Mark..........If you're just interested in lowering your car a little and making it handle better,here's what I've done to mine.Replaced all the worn out front end parts,bushings,tie rod ends,drag link,etc.To lower it I put spacers in the spring saddles that lowered it about 3 three inches.With gas shocks,radial tires,a front sway bar from a wagon,7 leaf rear springs and 2 inch lowering blocks,this old car drives and handles almost like a modern car.And this was without spending a lot of money.The larger sway bar is a definite must to improve driveability.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

Steve

Great explanation, and the props help even more. For those who are not sure what a "lathe center" is, thats the center point in which the spindle is held to machine the bearing/seal area on a lathe.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

While it can be done with hand tools, changing the bushing goes a lot better with a press. I opted to have a local front end shop do mine

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Here are the pictures of the two types of spindles - big car first - has the "big pin" lower ball joint that matches our older Fords. The position of the lathe center is an indicator of where the spindle centerline is relative to the lower ball joint - which sets the ride height. Your car already has geometry pretty much like this one.

This second shot shows the lathe center on the later model mustang / torino / granada spindle. The spindle axis is raised up above the lower ball joint by an inch or so - which lowers the ride height. It can go up even more - the ball joint pin on these is the "small pin" size and when they are reamed "just enough" to fully grip the "big pin" ball joint taper - that will set it down - and lower the ride height even further. If you are willing to stick with the drum brake version - these are really cheap. But the lathe center must be in this raised poition.

If you lower the car by using the spindles - without cutting the springs  or using softer ones - then you will retain the original suspension travel and ride. The car will just sit lower. This keeps it off the bump stops. Another good thing is that the upper ball joint will be moving down relative to the tire sidewall too - and may net you some better clearances in that respect.

As an addendum to this - the drum brakes on the later cars may have 4 stud wheel mountings - so get a look at that too.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I re-worked my front suspension as glrbird suggested. I went with 2&1/2" dropped Granada spindles from "Drop and Stop" with 11" Granada front disks and dual master power brake booster. I was pretty happy with the set-up and got the look and the stopping power I wanted, but I did run into a problem with the new stock coil springs I was using. After everything was back together, the springs were so tight that I could jump on the front bumper and the car didn't budge. We had to take it all apart and cut 1&1/2 turns out of each coil. I'm just sayin'

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Mark

If you are going to take the front apart, now would be a good time to put disks on the front and add a duel mastercylinder. It will stop so much better. The granada spindles will let the car set lower, if that is what you are trying to do with a spring change. You can rent a spring compressor at the local auto parts store to keep the spring from becoming a projectile. Check the tie rod ends also.Keep you front end shims in order, so when you put it back together, the alignment will be close. You should get it realigned when you are finished.

Advice; Stay out of the Texas sun!

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

Unless you just want to change things for the sake of changing things, going through the original front end will help a lot. It's not easy work. Make sure you have good tools to cage the springs because they can be dangerous. I have bushing removal and installation tools, but things can be improvised using sockets and the screw out of a gear puller. Replacing the idler arm will help a lot. Unless your ball joints are worn, I would leave them alone. I think all you can get these days is made in China junk. Same goes for the drag link and the tie rods. I would trust a good used before I would a made in China piece of junk. I've got a 56 out behind the house that I am redoing the front end. It sure helps when there is no motor in it.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

springtime may bring time for giving my suspension some attention...

considering installing the aerostar front springs option and the rest of the front end stuff, mostly replacing the 50-

 plus year old rubber bushings, etc...

anybody done this and care to throw me some encouragement/warnings/warnings!!??

standard steering, no a/c, 272, 3 spd...

any input appreciated!

thanks,Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX